Anticipation

Anticipation. Sometimes good surf just shows up, but more often we see it coming. Technology and a little time and understanding can let anyone predict the arrival of waves. Its that understanding and time thing I don't always have. Tomorrow is predicted at chest high, clean surf. I already have my schedule rearranged. Its been too long to miss this swell.

surf seasons

When the seasons are changing I think "this is my favorite time of year", but I say that about all of the seasons. What I really like is the change itself and the newness of that change. Solidly in spring now, the water temperature lags a little at 62 degrees and my full wetsuit is still the pick. I might try the springsuit the next time I get a sunny surf session. As much as I bitch about wetsuits, they do the job and keep me surfing all year. They also provide a contrast, and like the changing of the four seasons, the I like this change of the surf season too. I get to strip that suit off and once again feel big blue on my skin, feel the salty ocean water dry on my shoulders under a warming sun. I will revel in that first day released from the neoprene that has bound and restricted me. I will paddle and and pop up and turn down the line as a lighter, stronger surfer. Just give me about 10 more degrees......

ditching

You can't be a serious surfer for long without ditching something in order to get some surf in your schedule. Thursday before Easter the forecast looked promising and the early morning report was a "4 Wave" rating described as stomach/chest and glassy. The big group meeting wouldn't miss me too much, though the other surfers might notice assuming they weren't out themselves. Having not paddled out much in the weeks before, I was a little rusty and getting out past the shorebreak having just gotten over a bad cold didn't help, but of course this all disappeared with the first ride. The waves wore me out quicker than I expected. I even made the last half of the meeting afterall. Friday I had the day off and caught much smaller, but equally fun waves.