Glass Glider

Another great day at the beach!. I surfed this past Saturday AM on some memorable, glassy waves. It wasn't a big day, but the other conditions made for some perfect longboarding. At one point as I floated next to my board, before I hopped back on to paddle out I actually kissed the salty, wax covered deck of my board. I was overcome by the surreal feeling of the previous wave. If anyone saw me, I apologize for that...it was a private moment between man and his surfboard. The water was so smooth and glassy I could feel the wave, or rather the board's interface with the wave like I had never experienced before. Perhaps with added experience we get a better feel for minor changes in conditions. On that same ride time slowed down and as I crouched and sped down the line, I could see the breaking wave to my left and I reached out to feel the glassy waters part as my fingers slipped inside the wall of this wave. I wanted that ride to last forever....

Berthaaaaahh

Never was a woman's name so sweet as Bertha. After watching and waiting for more than a week the swell finally arrived in time, and by chance, I arrived in time for her. The same swell down in Myrtle Beach somehow just wasn't working so well. Its interesting how geology and geography can make a big difference with the relatively little "distance" between there and good ol' Wrightsville Beach. The Sweetwater Pro/Am could not have had it any better and Tony Butler seems to have pulled off a great event. I just hope he had a chance to surf a little of Bertha's waves. Sunday morning may have been the best surfing I've had, certainly the best of the year. As far as I could see on either side of me, surfers lined up to catch the waist, chest and higher glassy waves. Mostly , there seemed to be a good vibe, people spread out and got along. It was just too good to waste time doing anything but surf. Occaisionally a monster set would rise up in the horizon and in unison surfers paddled out deeper in anticipation, or as an act of self preservation. I did a little of both and ulltimately caught perhaps my longest rides ever, at least in NC. Hope you all were visited by Ms. Bertha...

I am posting a message I got earlier today regarding Allan Weisbecker, surfer , writer, and much more. I count him as a friend though we have never met in person. If you haven't heard of him then take the time to read his books, go to his website www.banditobooks.com . Right now he is sick and could use all the positive thoughts he can get. Here is the message and link...

Hello Everyone,John here, Allan's friend and web guy.
Many of you may be wondering why Allan has not responded to inquiries and feedback related to his last DSP about his return to Costa Rica. The fact is, Allan is seriously ill and has not been able to check email.Friends have asked that I keep the details of his illness private for now, so I'm going to respect their wishes and say only the following: He is seeking treatment and his condition is treatable (as in curable) if things go well in the next few days; though, as I write this, he is fighting for his life.I have set up a message board/guestbook for those of you who would like to show your love and support for Allan. Please take a moment to sign it and send some positive thoughts his way. Your support has always been extremely important to him... now more than ever.The message board is at www.banditobooks.com/guestbook.php
Thanks,John BenedettiBandito Books

Test 2

Test 2
... Message sent via Blackberry...

test

testing

Bertha's tease

Bertha is out there now, teasing all the east coast surfers. It looks like its going to turn north and slow down so I am hoping that (a) I will not get activated to work the emergency operation center and (b) there will be some big, clean, long period waves heading this way. Weather Underground is my "go to " hurricane site. It compiles several sources and is updates frequently. http://www.wunderground.com/tropical/

I will be heading to Myrtle Beach in the midst of this development so I will probably need to bring a few boards. I guess I need to test my remote blog posting capability....

a big hello...and another link

Just when I thought no one read this blog... a big hello to Amy and Geoff! who as I recall have also surfed at least once...and in CR! Its a little disheartening to know that they probably surfed better waves in Costa Rica during a beginners' lesson than I usually do anytime here.

Here is a pic of one of their dogs as taken by my son. Sorry Gretel- I don't have one of you.. but remember you do have the portrait in the foyer...









Found this surfing / art related website during lunch...
http://www.clubofthewaves.com/index.php

The past week or so has brought some decent waves. Saturday and Sunday were solid stomach high with some bigger. Surfing with my pal Dylan is always fun especially when you catch his game face as he rides down the line or drops down the wave face.