Win a Greg Eavey Board to Benefit Surfers Healing

I just saw this and I would love to win this board. What I would love more is for everyone to buy a ticket or 10 or 20 and benefit the amazing Surfers Healing foundation locally.

http://www.wblivesurf.com/news.asp?id=503

Check the link for more info and good luck on winning!

Longboard Magazine Art of Surfing edition is out

Longboard Magazine just sent me the latest annual surf art issue. If I am ever going to get onto the pages of this magazine, artwork will be the only way. Also a big kudos to Tony Silvagni for his 2nd place finish in the Honda US Open of Surfing longboard division...very cool for us here in the cape fear area. Tony has legitimately gotten himself on those pages a few times.

Big surf is hanging around from the coastal storm that kicked up the last few days, and this weekend promises to provide some fun waves...we shall see.

cool air warm water

This is a great season to be surfing...as in early fall as the air cools a little but the water is warm. There is something surreal about walking into an ocean that is warmer than the air around you. Still, I saw my first full wetsuit of the season on a guy. I was embarrassed for him actually. This is NC, not N. CA.... The surf was strange too, like it wasn't quite meant for me to surf those last two days. At least the body boarders and kayakers were having fun.

Which reminds me... though I try hard to keep good surf karma. I really don't appreciate a pack of body boarders parking in front of me. I was happy to let it go and paddle elsewhere til you boasted that you ran off the surfers. Yep, that is why I parked right next to you. Next time just whisper....

Whoa, where did that come from? Here is a little good karma to offset things. Don't forget the Art to Heart charity event and art auction... its a cool way to earn $$ for a worthy cause...and besides I donated a piece and I need at least one or two bids to save face...

Max and the surfing trophy

I made my son a surfing trophy commemorating his first real, standing up on a board for more than 1 second surf. This was last June or July. A broken arm this spring set him back a little, but this past weekend he really showed both the ability and "stoke". The waves on Bald Head Island were perfectly shaped but really small. The water was relatively shallow, so walking out into the calm waters and giving him a little nudge into the wave was all he needed to catch long rides. His balance is getting better and he told me he was trying to turn more. All this on an old beater performance longboard I had just days before gotten seaworthy. We head back later in the week for more, the conditions may not be so good for him then. He asked if he was going to get another trophy. Of course he will.

Lil, the youngest rode with me on several waves, fast rides all the way into shore. I think she will be surfing by next year...

surfer, dude

I am always so hungry for surf movie, not just a documentary or series of patched together surf footage, but a real surf movie that Surfer, Dude is looking pretty good. I like all the actors, and the concept. For all of the naysayers...go out and make a surf related movie...I will probably go watch it, rent it and maybe even buy it! Me and my little grom and best gal are looking forward to seeing it on the big screen...