Written in Wax

Taming the Wild East

2010-08-06T13:47:00.001-04:00

Flying in to the city of San Salvador, as you descend you see in a nutshell the small, Latin American country of El Salvador with the dense city surrounded by rugged , volcanic landscaped hills, farmland and yes…some very inviting coastline . Similar in size to Massachusetts, El Salvador has nearly 200 miles of south facing pacific coastline complete with lots of right hand point breaks. The coastal city of La Libertad, a relatively short distance from the airport, make it easy for some surfers to not look any farther for their fix…but then this was a Wrightsville Beach Longboard Association surf trip and we were headed east…the Wild East of El Salvador with sights on not only surfing, but also hopefully making a little difference in the lives of the people of our temporary home away from home. And “home” it was…complete with home cooking, the family dog and the motherly care of our hostess.
Our group was gathered up at the airport by Lisette the proprietor of Azul Surf Club, Manuel our surf guide and the magician behind the wheel of our surfmobile for the week, and Marvin , a local surfer, fisherman and semi-pro soccer player who also happened to be Lisette’s significant other.
Throughout our stay our hosts would share information about the things we passed by, local traditions, and history of El Salvador, including the Civil war. The 20 years of what proved to be a very visible war for many Americans caused more than a few strange looks and worrisome comments from friends and family as I talked about the upcoming trip. And sure, the war scarred the land and impacted the culture you see today in El Salvador, but this was a place I always felt safe, where the people seemed happy despite the low wages and sparse living conditions, and the group seemed to agree that El Salvador had a really good vibe. Even many years in its past, the civil war seems to have an ongoing impact on tourism but you can see and sense that this is changing too. From a surfers perspective at least, if you have some negative or dangerous image of this country, you should reconsider and add this to your potential surf trip list. One example was a pretty significant sewer installation project going on during our stay in the nearby town of El Cuco. Within the surfboard laden van passing us by 4 or more times a day to surf, we watched as the collection lines and manholes were installed in what for the US would be record time…and this from guys gladly working for 7 dollars a day, the El Salvadorian minimum wage.
Our group of nine (including our adopted WBLA member from Minnesota) hit the road from the airport on a little less travelled surf route with our new found friends and guides headed to El Cuco about 2 hours east. Upon arrival, we were welcomed to the oasis that is the Azul Surf Club …literally and figuratively and were greeted with the first of many delicious treats, watermelon juice in huge glasses.
In fact the food on the entire trip was spectacular and plentiful…by the second day we had to ask them to cut out the lunch. The normal meal plan included in the surf package consisted of a surfer’s breakfast, then a real breakfast, lunch and dinner. Lissette’s mother, a Cuban who now runs an El Salvadorian restaurant in the states wanted to make sure that when the surf club was started that the guests were fed “latin style” and were expected to gain weight on the trip. I can affirm that they succeeded. Even something simple like pancakes were some of the best anywhere. Interestingly among the many local superstitions are ones related to people with bad “flour” karma which resulted in one of our gracious caretakers, Carlita to be banned by her peers from making pancakes for us. One memorable meal of traditional Salvadorian dishes took place not far from the high tide mark at Los Flores, a beautiful rocky point with a powerful right hand wave and scene of many surf sessions.
Despite the food and excellent care of our hosts, this was after all a surf trip and we came for waves. Los Flores is a great right point break and while it is sandy bottomed, the extreme outside take off point more or less required you to make the drop or end up pounded into the big rocks nearby. The short boarding part of the delegation had a blast at this break which was working well as the swell increased and the other beach breaks were losing their form. Longboarders caught clean faces and long rides to the beach. Other spots we explored included Punta Mango another right point best accessible by boat, with a rock bottom that was a little more serious of a wave; El Toro, a wide beach break with fun rides on the first few days of the trip located more to the west; and even the El Cuco beach break out front of the surf club provided a few fun evening sessions. With various other breaks nearby that work in different swells or directions…there is always surf somewhere. The water was warm and inviting and we were glad to shed the wetsuits that were still being worn back home.
Often we were alone as a group, but even on the most crowded days at a given session, there wasn’t really a “crowd” and within range of a quick boat ride or down a dusty dirt road there was probably a good wave with no one surfing it at all. At one of the other nearby accommodations we heard that Donavan Frankenreiter was arriving the day most of us were leaving. Sessions were usually followed up by a dip in the pool, more food than I had earned from surfing probably and a little R & R in one of the many hammocks of which there seemed to be more of than chairs.
Both on the trip in from the airport and on a daytrip to San Miguel, the nearest major city that serves as commercial hub in the eastern part of El Salvador, we passed amazing views of grand Volcanoes soaring above the rest of the landscape. The last eruption was in 1912 but it’s a safe bet that still counts as an active volcano in geologic terms. There were lots of hills and rocky outcrops lush with palms, mango and cashew trees and fields of sugar cane. Despite being near the end of the dry season, things still looked pretty tropical and one can imagine just how lush and green a few days of rain would make.
In the little town just west, and maybe a 15 or 20 minute walk on the beach west sits El Cuco which doubles as a fishing village and commercial hub of the nearby residents, but also turns into a local hot spot on the weekends. Just as we might head to the beach with our families on a Saturday or Sunday, so did the many El Salvadorian people arriving by the truck and busload that flocked to the palapas …simple palm frond shelters from the sun… that stretched for a mile along the nearby beach to eat, drink and enjoy the dueling mariachi bands.
While we arrive with the purpose of surfing squarely in our sights, we were spoiled with the great treatment from people like Manuel working to keep us in good waves and good spirits, or Nelson cooking us some amazing meals, or Carlita taking care of just about everything else for us (except pancakes) and at the heart of it all is our hostess Lisette. Motherly in her instincts to care for us and her other visitors, she at just 29 is a savvy business woman, dreamer, planner, and catalyst for a lot of good things going on in this area. Lisette is highly respected by the locals and even as an “outsider” herself being born and raised in Los Angeles, she is firmly ingrained in El Cuco and would seem to be part of many extended families that she has helped. These include staff who works for her at the Azul Surf club, and the many children attending the 4 local schools that she helps support with meals, uniforms and supplies. We were lucky to meet some great school kids who flocked around her for hugs and to show off their homework. There are others she has helped to get dental or medical assistance to as well and all of these examples are part of her “Soul Project”. Essentially, the surf club’s visitors are helping to fund the many charitable efforts she has introduced to allow the community to develop and improve on its own. She is very much of the “teach them to fish” mind set and not just providing handouts to those in need. She also described how one Texas dentist came for 10 days for a combined surf trip, and outreach dental clinic treating many of the locals. He worked on teeth, and got a great place to stay and surf in exchange. (Worth noting if you are a surfer that can provide such dental or medical services…). It’s this kind of Soul Project combined with great surf that brought us to this place as a the WBLA club and I suspect more trips may follow to this home away from home.
Our Surfari to El Salvador and its “wild east” is worth a trip back not only for the waves, but for the gifts of being with great people and being treated so well by our hosts. You can find out more about El Salvador’s Wild East, its waves, Azul Surf Club and the good work of Lisette at www.azulsurfclub.com . Tell her the WBLA and Local Sessions sent you!

Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous

2010-08-06T13:42:00.001-04:00

Life's a waste of time and surfing's as good a way to waste it as anything. Miki Dora

Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous
We think of wealth and fame in terms of dollars, lavish material things and how widely your name is known or what magazine covers you picture is on. It’s easy to be captivated by all of that or at the least just curious about the fairy tale lifestyles of Kelly Slater, Lady GaGa (that one is for the Mrs.), Michael Jordan, Bill Gates or the Jonas Brothers (and that one was for my littlest surfer girl). This desire for a little piece of that world is how we sell things…being “cool” by association is a marketing miracle. It is why you can find more kids wearing Hurly, Billabong and Quicksilver in landlocked Midwest states than you probably can find here in the coastal east. And who can blame them...the surfing lifestyle can be as addictive as the act of riding a wave. Not quite, but close.
The true surfer, dedicated to the surfing spirit and lifestyle may live a life more adventurous, but I certainly don’t mind the tradeoffs I have made in life to give my family a little security. No, I don’t make every good day of surf (I still can’t believe I missed last Tuesday), but I can measure my trek to the beach in minutes not hours, I have a little quiver, I have my health and yes, I surf whenever I can which is enough to fuel my stoke. I am not captivated by movie stars nearly as much as I am of those expat soul surfers that roam the globe or make due with a camper under a palapa and take their spot in the lineup next to the locals. I can imagine that life…not 100% sure I want it for myself, but I can understand the draw of the waves…and the lifestyle.
My surfing lifestyle is about the little adventures, all the people, places I now know or will, and experiences I have in and out of the water. It’s about seeing the sea life in their home, sharing waves with family and friends, it’s about that cup of coffee with a friend in the parking lot while our boards and board shorts are still dripping, or pulling my dress shirt on at the beach access as I ready myself for the office after a dawn patrol session. Everything seems to evolve and connect to surfing for me now…or more appropriately the surfing lifestyle. And sure, I do have some surf brand clothes, I have surf racks (that I use) on my car, and in fact I can proudly report that an 11’2” board will fit inside the minivan…oops…I mean the Surfari Wagon. Maybe the most rewarding part of the surfing life is all the powerfully good work that surfers and surfing related organizations do for our neighbors in need, the environment and for children who could use a little hope in life. Show me a group that is more giving. Yes, surfing is giving me the life of the rich and famous…a rich surfing life and my son thinks I writing for Local Sessions makes me famous. Send comments, suggestions, complaints, and requests for how to pimp your minivan to writteninwax@gmail.com …see you in the water.

'tis the season

2009-10-27T12:50:00.003-04:00

Lots of great events on the horizon! As the water gets a little colder, surfers seem to find ways to accentuate their surf lives with some warmer, dryer charitible surf related events like a benefit for the IndoJax sponsored Ocean Cure tuesday the 27th (tonight) at Mellow Mushroom, the WBLA Surf Swaptopia on Nov. 14th (because your stuff wants to get back in the ocean!), the grand ol' Hope From Helen is back on December 4th, and don't forget the WBLA Oyster Roast on Dec. 5th!

And if you care about any of these great organizations, remember, if your company does United Way drives, you can designate your giving to any 501 (c) 3 non-profit! I know I will!

So maybe you won't recognize your surf bud in the lineup with all that neoprene and the numbness of your face precludes being able to talk anyway...but these great events keep a warm surfing spirit of community alive until spring!

2009-09-22T15:58:00.001-04:00

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ev1-1PI2fU

The link above has a great video to go with this Local Sessions article that was published...

Indo Jax Reaches Out

A small group is gathered on dry sand with a pier visible in either direction on Wrightsville Beach. The scene has become familiar, a group surf lesson complete with energetic instructors in the surfer version of a uniform, a small hoard of excited kids ready to move from the “dry” part of the lesson into the actual “let’s go get wet and surf” part, and of course the anxious parents lingering off to the side with cameras.

The surf is small, even for a beginner’s lesson, but the crowds of the day are mostly gone and there is plenty of room to teach and learn. The soft top boards of various sizes and bright colors are doled out and the surf instructors are paired up with a student. These kids were young, maybe one teen, but on average more like 8 to 10 year old mix of boys and girls. Soon the lesson got to the good part and its classic beginner surfing at its best; a few good nose dives, some that make it to one knee before the wipe out, feet slipping of the rails, and a few scary moments…you’ve been there and done that yourself, right? And then it comes, within a few minutes of the first board hitting the water, it happens….the little kid with the dark hair and tan is UP! and riding a wave. Something is a little different now and not as familiar as everyone erupts in cheers and hoots from the shore and in the water, and then it happens over and over as each kid finds their balance and catches a ride, those first magical rides of a surfer on a wave. There were lots of smiles on stoked kids and parents alike. It’s impossible to forget the pride on one father face as he hugged is son. After all, that kid rocked his lesson, but this certainly went much deeper.

What is different here from an otherwise very normal surf lesson is that each of the kids learning to surf that day is visually impaired and some have other medical conditions as well. These things can hardly be called disabilities after watching their success. Maybe it took a little special help for a few of them, but each of these children came to shore that day…a surfer.

Jack Viorel and his partners Kevin Murphy and Chris Lacoe of Indo Jax Surf School have incorporated outreach surf camps as part of who they are as a company. These free outreach surf events are focused on medically fragile children, but they are also active in other programs like Life Rolls on, and the Wounded Warrior project. During this 2009 season from March through September, Indo Jax will be hosting or participating in at least a dozen events; camps with a focus on kids with Autism, Diabetes, HIV, visual impairments, and also surf camps for Special Olympics and the Boys and Girls Club are among the events. Viorel added that the success of their charity surf camps is a direct result of the instructors. “We have instructors that are dedicated to the success of our students… our instructors are extremely skilled in the water and great at working with medically fragile and at risk kids. These camps would not be possible without their dedication and caring for others.”

As sun dropped behind the beach houses that day, the warm glow of the evening seemed to call the surfers and instructors back to shore. There was a family reunion of sorts going, not just daughter or son to parents, but rather this whole big new family that had been forged over those few hours. It wasn’t the time or place to crash that party with an interview, but Local Sessions did catch up with Indo Jax founder and owner Jack Viorel for a little more insight.

Local Sessions: Tell us about the first outreach event you did, how did that happen?
Jack Viorel: When we started Indo Jax we wanted to do charity surf camps as a core part of the business. We believe the ocean and surfing can uplift the human spirit and change people's outlook on life. We set out to prove it. Our first outreach surf camp was with CARE, Coastal Aids Resource Effort. A local organization working with children and young adults infected or affected by HIV. It was a powerful event and set everything we've done since in motion.

LS: How did these other outreach programs come to life? Was it planned, or did they seek you out?
JV: At first, since no one knew who we were, we offered charity surf camps to groups we thought could benefit. Our goal is that groups come to us to schedule camps. That is beginning to happen. For instance the Boys and Girls Club, Wounded Warrior Project, and a couple others came to us this year and we scheduled it as a result of their request. We still had to schedule most ourselves.

LS: It would seem that the outreach programs are a reflection of just who you and your company is at the core, and not just part of the business, am I reading that right?
JV: Our motto is "we are nothing if we don't give back” and we really mean it. We made a conscious decision to live or die as a company by giving back. Many people, including friends, have criticized our business sense and told us we can't do it this way. We simply decided to do it this way regardless. Some of these camps have been so personally moving that at this point it doesn't really matter to us if the business is successful; we know we have done what's right in the larger scheme of things.

LS: What has been the response to your outreach programs? and the other organization "Ocean Cure"?
JV: The response to these camps has been overwhelming. I think we all agree at Indo Jax that the result is exactly what we thought. People with limitations, be it socio-economic, physical, or mental, are uplifted when they try something out of their comfort zone and have success. In addition the ocean really does have healing properties. We have lots of people with serious limitations that are now pursuing surfing as a hobby or a way to keep their spirits positive. Often it's the parents that are pumped, because we broke down their limiting beliefs about their own children. I really think these camps change the lives of the participants and their families. Ocean Cure is the nonprofit wing of Indo Jax. These surf camps are expensive to run and so we have begun taking donations through Ocean Cure.

LS: I know my opinion of this, but do you think you all have changed lives?
JV: I know it has changed lives, those of our students and all of ours, no doubt.

LS: Any outreach event that stands out? or individual students?
JV: Charles and Lamont, two brothers from CARE. They took our first charity camp and learned to surf in no time at all. They got hooked and so we arranged to get them surfboards and now we surf with them whenever we get the chance to get them down to the beach. We have become friends and they have volunteered for some of our other outreach programs. They are a great example of the barriers broken by these surf camps and the uplifting capabilities of the ocean and learning to surf can have on a person.

LS: So, is this going to be a long term thing? Do you think you can sustain this program going forward?
JV: The charity is here to stay with or without the donations. It is who we are as a company. We bit off a lot this year, but are determined to accomplish what we set out to do. We set a goal of at least 10 charity events for this year and at the moment have 12 planned for this season. So far, all have been successful and none have failed. We can sustain the program the way it is now but we would like to make the program better. We have been asked to start long term projects with some organizations and we will definitely need financial support to get those programs off the ground.

LS: Can you give me the basics of Indojax and what you all do /provide as a company?
JV: Indo Jax is a surf and kiteboard school. We do surf camps and private surf lessons as well as private and small group kiteboard classes. Our instructors are top notch, many are certified teachers and very skilled at what they do.

A big thanks to Indo Jax for letting us peek into their world. If you want to know more about any of this, check out their website at http://indojaxsurfschool.com/ .

Indojax outreach

2009-06-30T18:38:00.001-04:00

Yesterday evening I cruised over to the Blockade Runner to check out a
special surfcamp outrech program put on by Indojax Surf Camp. It was very
low key and like any surf lesson you see the expected pearling, shaky pop
ups and kooky stances. This group was no different really; energetic kids,
excited but worried parents, and stoke invoking instructors... In fact a
few a few of those kids did much better tha my first surfing attempts. But
there was something different about this surf class. These kids were all
visually impaired and some had other impairments too. Indojax rocks in my
book. During this season they are doing a out a dozen outreach programs at
no cost. These guys give their time, equipment and stoke freely to these
outreach events. I am still tryoing to decide who had the biggest
smiles....the kids, their parents, the indojax guys....or me.
... Message sent via Blackberry...
Laurence C. Bergman
Information Technology Director
City of Wilmington
PO Box 1810
Wilmington, NC 28402-1810
Phone: 910-343-3909
Fax: 910-341-4624
Email: larry.bergman@wilmingtonnc.gov.

Of wax and distant waves

2009-06-12T13:44:00.001-04:00

Of Wax and Distant Waves
There is a partially used bar of wax in my car. The cooler weather has kept it from ending up as pool of muck in my drink holder although with the current state of my surf heap, it wouldn’t matter much if it did melt. I find myself sticking the tacky white chunk to my nose and breathing in deep. Hours later I will still be able to feel the wax on my fingers and smell the familiar tropical scent that can put me on a top of a board on a pretty left no matter where I happen to be at that moment.
Speaking of which, for the second time in just a few short weeks I find myself on the road and far away from good surf. A good friend said not to worry, that if the waves were good they would comfort me by saying that it was flat. Thanks, really, I mean it… unfortunately they can’t email me with this little white lie because it turns out to be chest high and clean and they are all too busy collecting memories for their “you should have been here yesterday” stories. From 250 miles inland I watched the reports and updates all day, all week, the surf was shaping up nicely and of course there I was , the closest body of water- a muddy brown lake.
The next trip away was to honor the passing of my grandfather. Interestingly, he didn’t swim. He told me about an incident that had put fear into him as a young boy. I think it was probably the only thing he was afraid of actually. When I was much younger he would join us at the beach and he would walk up and down the ocean’s edge and had an uncanny ability to spot sharks teeth. It was pointed by another good friend that ancient Germanic tribes attributed the ocean as the place our souls come from and return to, so this meshed well with my thoughts of my strong German decent Grandfather. He was good with his hands… fixing things, doing woodwork, tending gardens; Utilitarian and creative all at once. I am just now seeing similar elements in myself with a new appreciation. Maybe I can reign in some of his spirit as I shape a new board. Anyway, if you are having a particularly good day of big, shapely swell…. You are welcome, because I must be out of town.
As simple as wax is, it’s much too under appreciated. Knowing how frustrating it is to need it and not have it, I recall scraping some off my board with a shell to let a fellow surfer get that little bit of grip to get through the day. And who hasn’t tossed a little nub of wax to another in need, all in the name of good surf karma. The variations on technique for applying wax are interesting too. I just have to learn to do that sunburst spiral thing before its time to put on the summer wax. There are a ridiculous number of surf wax brands once you do a little research. There is a surf wax collection online that just boggled my mind. I was taught to use lots of wax and put it all over and I still do this. Putting new wax on a clean board is something I really enjoy, and actually stripping it off is pretty satisfying to me. I run my hand up and down the smooth deck looking for cracks and bumps and remember that this is how that board originally looked. This summer a family friend met us at the beach and brought an old beater thruster from the 80’s…it was all original...including the wax. It was so old and dirty I wondered if it was some secret pine tar recipe. Surf wax is also a convenient excuse to walk into a surf shop. I have bought wax in every shop I know of in the area as the drawer in my utility room demonstrates. Sex Wax, the old standard is still probably my preference as long as it’s the white pineapple variety, but I use others too including one with little color coded flecks so you can tell if it’s warm or cold water wax- pure genius. Drop by your favorite shop, grab some wax for your stick, and maybe an extra bar for your desk at work or school or and you will never be too far from those distant waves.
See you in the water.
Drop me a line at writteninwax@gmail.com with comments, complaints, cool surfing pics, salsa recipes or for no reason at all.

A few of the recent Written In Wax articles

2009-06-12T13:37:00.002-04:00

The new Local Sessions is out, so get to your favorite surfshop in town and grab a copy. If you can't wait to check out the latest Written In Wax column I copied it, and some of the recent issues pieces too.

Surf Now, Apocalypse later. That’s what the beachside graffiti read somewhere in California. This issue arrives on the heels of recession, pandemic, and worse…a rather lame winter and spring of waves. Sure, there have been a few magic days, and with the right stick you can just about always catch a little ride but those long cold months with short days require more commitment. The solution? Summer. You don’t have to wait ‘til June 21…it begins when the wetsuits start getting shed, boards get stripped and freshly waxed (you do take that old wax off don’t you?), and you stop feeling so lonely at your favorite surf spot.
Some of the best days of the year have nothing to do with the size of waves, but rather the freedom of paddling out in just board shorts for the first time that season and feeing the still cool water with the assurance that the sun will quickly warm you. The “right coast” way of surf life is about changes and cycles, it’s about the promise of waves brought by autumn storms and winter swells and the assurance that summer will come and let us feel the ocean without neoprene prisons surrounding us. Think about this…have you ever had a surf dream where you are wearing a wetsuit?
And…some of the most memorable days may not even be about the waves you surf at all, but the waves that a little grom will catch for the first time at surf camp, or that an autistic child will find some peace in at the Surfers Healing event, or that wave that gets a competitor a heat winning score in one of the various competitions we have in the back yards all along our Local Sessions coastline.
But…yes, some of your favorite days of summer will be about waves, your waves and those of friends around you. It will be about those days were you can sit on the beach with friends or family and jump up and run in for a few waves and then easily coast in and build a sandcastle with the kids. The days are long and its once again possible to get in a dawn patrol surf before work or school, and then catch another session after dinner. If we love surfing, then this is a little of the “why” we love summer in the South.
Some will curse the tourist that push their umbrellas 4 inches into the sand only to have it blow away and spear your favorite board (yes this is fact not fiction), and others will moan about the surf zones and regulations (which you should obey and educate others about if you plan on keeping these rights), and maybe those human obstacles that are in the surf keep you from a great ride now and again. The contrast is part of what makes changes in the seasons something to look forward to; who knows, maybe in a few months you will be wishing for an empty lineup and 48 degree water.
Write your comments and questions on a twenty dollar bill and send it to Local Sessions...or just email me at writteninwax@gmail.com …see you in the water.

Not So Regular

I am not overly conscious about myself, but I am pretty sure that I don’t have a goofy haircut and my wife is good at keeping me dressed so I am not too goofy looking, or at least not when she is around. So why is it that just because some of us surf or skate with a right foot forward we are destined to be called a “goofy foot”? I can vaguely remember someone telling me I was goofy as I was learning to surf, but that it didn’t really matter. Of course they, a regular foot, had no Disneyland stigma attached to their stance. I have since learned that left handers tend to be goofy and right handers tend to be regular, but it’s not always the case. I am actually right handed and goofy footed which must make me even rarer.

Of course I am in good company and you may have heard of these before…Tom Carroll, Joel Tudor, Gerry Lopez, Rob Machado to name a few. I thought my son was going to join me in this elite status, but I am afraid he is going to stand regular like his momma. I guess everyone can’t be blessed with a right foot forward stance. In fact, of the 70 or so male surfers listed in the Fantasy Surfer statistics, only about 25 percent are Goofy footed, and only one of the 19 Women riders, 5%, is a right foot front stance. This has no real value in knowing or having shared with you, but if other sports aficionados can spit out useless trivia about how many footballs an NFL home team has to provide the referee (24), or who reached 1000 strike outs first (Babe Ruth), then you can stun them with your prowess on the footedness percentages of professional surfers. There is a fair amount of research on handedness, but finding surf related handedness and footedness research is pretty slim pickens. I am guessing that surfers would rather…well…be surfing than researching.

As the story goes, the 1937 Disney cartoon, Hawaiian Holiday (you can find it on YouTube) depicts, among other things, Goofy surfing right foot forward on a blunt tailed, finless, no rocker plank and it has stuck ever since. I suppose I have grown fond of the term. Regular sounds so…regular. A “goofy foot” t-shirt would be kind of cool, but “regular”? Yes, your parents must be so proud that you are regular. Of course plenty of regulars seem to be adamant that their stance is dominant and more prevalent for a reason. I found a great story about the late legendary surfer/shaper Dale Velzy and his great dismay as he learned that is young son was goofy foot. This is a family magazine, so I will have to leave that particular quote out…just use your imagination.
As I have progressed and become more confident of my abilities on a surfboard, the name for how I stand isn’t really that big of a concern…although, now that I think of it, maybe when that person called me goofy when I was surfing that it had nothing to do with my stance…

See you in the water.
Writteninwax@gmail.com is your direct email link to send comments, suggestions, or to enlighten me with more useless trivia.

Mexican Surfari

2009-03-25T12:34:00.004-04:00

I arrived back from Mexico early on a Sunday morning, the hot water of the shower at 3 AM felt very foreign after a week without, as I felt the dust of Mexico wash away. I could feel the soreness in my shoulders and back, and feel the various surfing inflicted rashes, pains and scrapes of a week of surfing 3 and 4 times a day. Playa La Saladita is is a warm water, looooong, left point break in the state of Guerrero in Mexico. I easily had the best rides of my life on that wave, long rides where I could relax and enjoy the surroundings and experience it all. If that wasn't enough, I had a chance to meet with and surf near my favorite author Allan Weisbecker who is camped out just yards from this magic spot. The group also spent a fair amount of time at a small local school volunteering and becoming more a part of the community, and hopefully showing the people of La Saladita and Los Llanos that the surfers coming to their world are more than ghosts passing through.

2009-01-06T13:53:00.001-05:00

If you have not caught the latest Local Sessions Magazine, here is the latest published "Written in Wax"

Close to the Soul
I added a sticker to the beloved “surfmobile” with the stylized silhouette of a noserider that says “Stay Close to the Soul”. I don’t really need a sticker to remind me of this, but it seemed fitting to add it there next to the Fuel TV decal and right above the Local Sessions sticker. This is a small, outward expression of what surfing is to me though it is essentially impossible to relay the feeling to someone who doesn’t surf. Certainly friends and loved ones can sense my excitement and hear my “stoke” as I talk about one of my best days on the water. It’s no wonder so many people have taken up surfing because we are the best marketing tool that any industry could hope to have…millions of devotees spread across the globe who can hardly contain themselves as a good swell comes to their favorite break, or that talks about their latest session with a sparkle in their eye. This club without a roster shows up to the beach toting foam and fiberglass works of art under tan, muscular arms and shoulders so it’s hard not to notice and aspire to this subculture. The surfing world runs on this engine that we help fuel and as much as some may complain, it’s what pushes the new generations of surfing technology. Just like the sticker on my jeep, I think deep down the surfing world wants everyone to know how amazing and perfect a ride on a wave can be, and like any good secret, it’s hard to keep.
Still, when you strip this away, when you subtract out those who will try and fail, or those that never get that addictive thrill, and that do not connect to the ocean, you are left with those who have a soul of surfing. They might compete and even get sponsored, just ride with friends, or look for the solitude of an empty dawn patrol spot, but the soul is there in any of them. A few years back when I finally figured out the “act” of surfing, the “soul” of surfing quickly washed over me like the clear, turquoise blue ocean of a summer afternoon. My favorite new quote says… “the cure for anything is salt water: sweat, tears or the sea” (Isak Dinesen). Though this surfing soul was born in the “ride”, I think this quote sums up why it stays strong in me. I didn’t really know I had an ailment, until surfing and the ocean healed me. For every specific ride or memorable session I have just as many memories of things like seeing a school of fish under me as I rode down the line, or seeing a dolphin up close in the wild, or feeling the curative effects of the ocean on my stuffy nose or lingering hangover. You have to work for this, and you might get hurt. However, if you are good to surfing, it will be good to you.
There are other facets of my surfing soul. While the surfing bug was biting hard, anytime I wasn’t in the water, I was reading about surfing, hanging out on WBLivesurf.com or Swaylocks.com, or in the garage giving life to old boards. I read a few of Kem Nunn’s books and then stumbled onto Allan Weisbecker. I now count Weisbecker as a friend and who has recently been very ill. He wrote among other things “In Search for Captain Zero”, the first book of his I found and read. The story isn’t all about surfing, but the soul of surfing is present throughout. It’s worth your time. A lot of the most interesting people with whom I have connected to over the past year or so are as a result of surfing or Local Sessions which of course fuels this soul and stoke. This human element of soul surfing comes to me when I meet someone in the lineup, or as I learn the name of a mystery surfer from that foggy morning session, and from the fellow surfer at the Midas shop who keeps the “heep” running. Of course I can’t forget the family that puts this great magazine together. If Chris and Patsy aren’t close to the soul, then I don’t know who is. A lot of what surfing is to me is very personal, but I have learned that staying “close to the soul” has a broad, inclusive meaning.
See you in the water.
Got a comment or idea? Let me know at Writteninwax@gmail.com

Safe Passage

2008-11-04T16:15:00.002-05:00

Latest contribution to Local Sessions Magazine... get a copy at your local shop cape fear shop for lots of great pics and original content...

Craigslist Post: surf board - $25
one full size surfboard with safety rope, it belonged to my son but he is in heaven now

that is all it said. Reading this posting I felt lucky and hoped I replied in time. When I opened the ad and read this simple statement I really had to pause. Lots of emotions and thoughts about life, surfing and surfers who have passed fell onto me like a good rainstorm. I felt a deep sadness as I thought about my perfect children and how very much I love them and couldn’t fathom losing them ever. I can clearly see the smile on my son’s face as he turned back from the shore to look at me standing in the ocean searching for a “thumbs up” of approval as he surfed in for the first times. Anyone who has ever surfed has the privilege of feeling a little closer to his or her maker and perhaps that is why I felt compelled to see if the board was still available not because I need another board (whoa…did I actually write that !? ) but rather I really wanted that kindred spirit to be nourished and given new life and I had something in mind.

I troll around craigslist looking for boards, some to fix and resell, some to ride, and even broken ones for art projects. So yes, I don’t really “need” a surfboard I suppose. Giving life to old or broken things is very satisfying. Fixing up an old longboard that was nearly part of the landfill into homage to a favorite writer (the Weisbecker Board) became an obsession, and I just finished one art piece from thruster with a broken tail for the Art to Heart auction to benefit Duke Children’s Hospital that used the surface of the board as a canvas. This board however had already found a new home. Maybe to be resold, or hung up somewhere, but ultimately I hope that board finds the ocean again since my plans to paint it and give it a new, multifaceted life as a surfboard, art and donation for charity events won’t work out with this one- but I will find another.

Still, this unnamed surfer will be given a little more life here among us; at least this is my hope. If we remember people, then a part of them keeps living and if we can pass these memories or things along, then maybe they are never fully gone, and they live forever. One thing I dwelled on much after a friend passed on some years back, is that I would have much rather been driving to go see him living and not driving to a memorial in his honor. So, go see your friends and family, don’t take them for granted.

Life and Surfing becomes synonymous to many. I don’t know much about some of the people I surf with; often I don’t know their names even if I have seen them a dozen times and even chatted with them. I do know that they are a surfer. Someone who shares the thrills of the ride, or utter awe at the ocean’s beauty and power, or maybe they too find a lot of calm and peace in the ocean. As I go left, sliding down the line on a glassy wave, I thrust my hand into the wave face, and I’m connected and time no longer exists. It doesn’t stop or slow down, it’s just not there. As I paddle out for a dawn patrol session, I breathe in the ocean air, and float facing the sunrise and experience one of surfing’s great pleasures. I know nothing about this surfer, and not much about others that have passed on really, but I don’t need do. I didn’t need to know anything else about this man and his son.

Now and again we lose a fellow surfer and remember them by paddling out and joining together in the ocean that drew them in and gave them new life as surfer. Isek Dinesen wrote…”The cure for anything is salt water: sweat, tears or the sea…”, and so wishing fellow wave riders a safe passage beyond in this way is really more for us, for those left behind. I am guessing the waves are always warm, glassy and chest high where they are now and the paddle out is always easy. I hope I have given a little more life to this surfer, and others you might think of now. See you in the water. Contact me at Writteninwax@gmail.com with ideas, suggestions or for no reason at all…

season has changed

2008-10-27T10:03:00.003-04:00

Wearing a wetsuit for the first time marks a change of season for me each year. Winter, which really in my North Carolina surfing terms goes from late fall to early spring, is that elongated season of wearing a full suit. Yes, there is the harsh, dead of winter around February surfing that really sets you apart from the weaker, casual surfer- but its all still "winter" to me. Spring and Fall surf seasons are fairly short at my local breaks. They seem like a few weeks of transition between full neoprene maybe just a wetsuit type shirt or vest, or maybe a few days where you surfed in board shorts but could have used a little warmth. The other elongated season is Summer. As a kid they seemed much longer than they have as an adult, but thanks to surfing, I have managed to stretch them out once again to include part of spring and fall too! The cool water does wonders for thinning out the crowds, but I still love surfing in warm air and warm water.

Win a Greg Eavey Board to Benefit Surfers Healing

2008-09-30T11:00:00.002-04:00

I just saw this and I would love to win this board. What I would love more is for everyone to buy a ticket or 10 or 20 and benefit the amazing Surfers Healing foundation locally.

http://www.wblivesurf.com/news.asp?id=503

Check the link for more info and good luck on winning!

Longboard Magazine Art of Surfing edition is out

2008-09-26T13:40:00.002-04:00

Longboard Magazine just sent me the latest annual surf art issue. If I am ever going to get onto the pages of this magazine, artwork will be the only way. Also a big kudos to Tony Silvagni for his 2nd place finish in the Honda US Open of Surfing longboard division...very cool for us here in the cape fear area. Tony has legitimately gotten himself on those pages a few times.

Big surf is hanging around from the coastal storm that kicked up the last few days, and this weekend promises to provide some fun waves...we shall see.

cool air warm water

2008-09-22T23:30:00.002-04:00

This is a great season to be surfing...as in early fall as the air cools a little but the water is warm. There is something surreal about walking into an ocean that is warmer than the air around you. Still, I saw my first full wetsuit of the season on a guy. I was embarrassed for him actually. This is NC, not N. CA.... The surf was strange too, like it wasn't quite meant for me to surf those last two days. At least the body boarders and kayakers were having fun.

Which reminds me... though I try hard to keep good surf karma. I really don't appreciate a pack of body boarders parking in front of me. I was happy to let it go and paddle elsewhere til you boasted that you ran off the surfers. Yep, that is why I parked right next to you. Next time just whisper....

Whoa, where did that come from? Here is a little good karma to offset things. Don't forget the Art to Heart charity event and art auction... its a cool way to earn $$ for a worthy cause...and besides I donated a piece and I need at least one or two bids to save face...

Max and the surfing trophy

2008-09-15T13:35:00.003-04:00

I made my son a surfing trophy commemorating his first real, standing up on a board for more than 1 second surf. This was last June or July. A broken arm this spring set him back a little, but this past weekend he really showed both the ability and "stoke". The waves on Bald Head Island were perfectly shaped but really small. The water was relatively shallow, so walking out into the calm waters and giving him a little nudge into the wave was all he needed to catch long rides. His balance is getting better and he told me he was trying to turn more. All this on an old beater performance longboard I had just days before gotten seaworthy. We head back later in the week for more, the conditions may not be so good for him then. He asked if he was going to get another trophy. Of course he will.

Lil, the youngest rode with me on several waves, fast rides all the way into shore. I think she will be surfing by next year...

surfer, dude

2008-09-15T13:32:00.002-04:00

I am always so hungry for surf movie, not just a documentary or series of patched together surf footage, but a real surf movie that Surfer, Dude is looking pretty good. I like all the actors, and the concept. For all of the naysayers...go out and make a surf related movie...I will probably go watch it, rent it and maybe even buy it! Me and my little grom and best gal are looking forward to seeing it on the big screen...

highway to surf

2008-08-21T15:20:00.001-04:00

You notice a fair amount of surfboards on I-40 traveling to and fro.
We need to remember how sacred this gift is to live on the coast where
going for a surf can be spontaneous.

Where did all that time go?

2008-08-18T13:58:00.002-04:00

Wow- I have lost track of blog time. Its been nearly 3 weeks since a post but since no one really reads this anyway(yet) I suppose I am relatively safe. I have enjoyed a lot of smallish days and have scored some really great rides. I have been getting some nice rides down the line where I have stuck my hand in the wave to slow down, even thought I might get a little "head dip" barrel a few times. Those rides really feel like time shuts down. I can see and feel so much, and I see the rest of the world slow down around me.

A few of those days I was riding near some groms, though "grom" may not be quite right since some of them probably have been surfing as long or longer than me anyway. You can spot the local kids who know how to paddle and catch waves, their tan skin and confidence in the water is easily contrasted by the awkward, pale kids trying to paddle twice and often much to late for any kind of success. I tend to not look back too much in life, except regret for not surfing sooner.

Glass Glider

2008-07-28T14:09:00.000-04:00

Another great day at the beach!. I surfed this past Saturday AM on some memorable, glassy waves. It wasn't a big day, but the other conditions made for some perfect longboarding. At one point as I floated next to my board, before I hopped back on to paddle out I actually kissed the salty, wax covered deck of my board. I was overcome by the surreal feeling of the previous wave. If anyone saw me, I apologize for that...it was a private moment between man and his surfboard. The water was so smooth and glassy I could feel the wave, or rather the board's interface with the wave like I had never experienced before. Perhaps with added experience we get a better feel for minor changes in conditions. On that same ride time slowed down and as I crouched and sped down the line, I could see the breaking wave to my left and I reached out to feel the glassy waters part as my fingers slipped inside the wall of this wave. I wanted that ride to last forever....

Berthaaaaahh

2008-07-14T13:26:00.002-04:00

Never was a woman's name so sweet as Bertha. After watching and waiting for more than a week the swell finally arrived in time, and by chance, I arrived in time for her. The same swell down in Myrtle Beach somehow just wasn't working so well. Its interesting how geology and geography can make a big difference with the relatively little "distance" between there and good ol' Wrightsville Beach. The Sweetwater Pro/Am could not have had it any better and Tony Butler seems to have pulled off a great event. I just hope he had a chance to surf a little of Bertha's waves. Sunday morning may have been the best surfing I've had, certainly the best of the year. As far as I could see on either side of me, surfers lined up to catch the waist, chest and higher glassy waves. Mostly , there seemed to be a good vibe, people spread out and got along. It was just too good to waste time doing anything but surf. Occaisionally a monster set would rise up in the horizon and in unison surfers paddled out deeper in anticipation, or as an act of self preservation. I did a little of both and ulltimately caught perhaps my longest rides ever, at least in NC. Hope you all were visited by Ms. Bertha...

2008-07-08T13:45:00.002-04:00

I am posting a message I got earlier today regarding Allan Weisbecker, surfer , writer, and much more. I count him as a friend though we have never met in person. If you haven't heard of him then take the time to read his books, go to his website www.banditobooks.com . Right now he is sick and could use all the positive thoughts he can get. Here is the message and link...

Hello Everyone,John here, Allan's friend and web guy.
Many of you may be wondering why Allan has not responded to inquiries and feedback related to his last DSP about his return to Costa Rica. The fact is, Allan is seriously ill and has not been able to check email.Friends have asked that I keep the details of his illness private for now, so I'm going to respect their wishes and say only the following: He is seeking treatment and his condition is treatable (as in curable) if things go well in the next few days; though, as I write this, he is fighting for his life.I have set up a message board/guestbook for those of you who would like to show your love and support for Allan. Please take a moment to sign it and send some positive thoughts his way. Your support has always been extremely important to him... now more than ever.The message board is at www.banditobooks.com/guestbook.php
Thanks,John BenedettiBandito Books

Test 2

2008-07-07T14:57:00.002-04:00

Test 2
... Message sent via Blackberry...

test

2008-07-07T14:33:00.001-04:00

testing

Bertha's tease

2008-07-07T14:32:00.002-04:00

Bertha is out there now, teasing all the east coast surfers. It looks like its going to turn north and slow down so I am hoping that (a) I will not get activated to work the emergency operation center and (b) there will be some big, clean, long period waves heading this way. Weather Underground is my "go to " hurricane site. It compiles several sources and is updates frequently. http://www.wunderground.com/tropical/

I will be heading to Myrtle Beach in the midst of this development so I will probably need to bring a few boards. I guess I need to test my remote blog posting capability....

a big hello...and another link

2008-07-01T13:32:00.004-04:00

Just when I thought no one read this blog... a big hello to Amy and Geoff! who as I recall have also surfed at least once...and in CR! Its a little disheartening to know that they probably surfed better waves in Costa Rica during a beginners' lesson than I usually do anytime here.

Here is a pic of one of their dogs as taken by my son. Sorry Gretel- I don't have one of you.. but remember you do have the portrait in the foyer...

Found this surfing / art related website during lunch...
http://www.clubofthewaves.com/index.php

The past week or so has brought some decent waves. Saturday and Sunday were solid stomach high with some bigger. Surfing with my pal Dylan is always fun especially when you catch his game face as he rides down the line or drops down the wave face.

a few good surf related links

2008-06-26T13:40:00.002-04:00

http://www.wblivesurf.com/index.asp

http://www.swellinfo.com/

http://www.surfersteve.com/introduction.htm

http://www.swaylocks.com/

http://www.banditobooks.com/ezine/home

I spend a little time at these spots.... worth checking out in my humble opinion

too late

2008-06-25T08:32:00.000-04:00

I waited too long and by the time I paddled out on "the best day in June" I was struggling to be in the perfect , elusive spots in windy, choppy surf. I got a few rides and the water felt great. A few others were out near me, all women actually. Chicks with Sticks! I would rather watch women surf any day, much more grace and style.....

best day in june

2008-06-24T12:49:00.002-04:00

The online forum says its the best surf of June today. I say its only good if you get to surf it! So, now as I eat my lunch from my desk, checking surf reports and whining, will I be worth anything for the rest of the day? Maybe I should just cash in some vacation time and go...

I may get the best of both worlds and head out right after work. I need to start leaving a board here at the office. Which reminds me, I got a new surf rack for the Deep (Jeep) from Inno. The Inno Boardlocker is uber cool....but...again...only if it has your board locked in it and ready to go surfing on a tuesday at 1pm!!!! They are available from Costco online at a good savings if you can't find one at the local surf shop.

reprieve

2008-06-23T11:41:00.002-04:00

Weeks on end of knee high or less waves was broken on Sunday. The distinction, for me, on those larger days comes in the ratio of thrill to time and effort expended catching a wave. On bigger days, the waves that I catch and ride are fewer but when I do, the "wow" factor is higher. I have most of my most fun days on waist high clean waves, but my most memorable rides generally are on chest, head or even higher waves. So, yesterday getting that "drop"down a big face really fuels the surfing fire within.

Saturday was a wash, literally. I tried to surf with some friends but the lightning kept us at bay. Still, it was good to have the little group together...bound in time and place for the common purpose in what we call the "board meetings".

Today is International Go Surfing Day

2008-06-20T07:50:00.002-04:00

.....so GO SURF, or at least do something related, maybe wear a surf shirt, ride your indo board, go watch someone surf, whatever. I am going to try to make it into the water though it may be a little flat here. Google Surfing Day to learn more.

First Heat

2008-06-19T09:03:00.002-04:00

On May 17th I surfed my first surf competition heat. About a year before at the same WBLA competition I watched and made a goal to enter the next year. I really wasn't as good as I had hoped but I entered anyway. The waves were small and I was nervous, but in the end I had a lot of satisfaction having surfed that day. The best part was watching all of the others, surfers of all ages really show their stuff.

I always wondered what I looked like surfing, now I know!...not so graceful. I know I am more or a "soul surfer" but this was fun and it pushed me. It also helped connect me to something bigger and I have a new goal for 2009...to advance to the second heat. We shall see.

its all relative

2008-06-18T08:24:00.002-04:00

I spent a long weekend in Myrtle Beach seeing family and enjoying the father's day with my kids and wife. I brought one board, a 9 foot "Supersoft" brand soft top board. It floats on top of the water even when I am on it, so it really floats. Other than that, the benefit is its softness, soft top and rails, little soft tri fin set up. All of this adds up to a user friendly, low performance board. Or at least that is what I just told myself.

A few waves later I realize that while I brought this so friends and family might give surfing a shot, I was going to be riding this baby blue board with brick shaped rails for the majority of time it saw water, at least for this trip. There is a video out somewhere of Taj Burrow and Kelly Slater and maybe some others surfing a beautiful wave, on various boards, then they start surfing on things like coffee tables...and they still surf better than my best day. Back to the blue bomber...I decided I was going to get every ounce of fun from this thing that I could. Steadily I figured this board out, I finessed the rails and fins around to turn without the board stalling, and I found myself having a few really good rides. Pop up, bottom turn (OK, its was small mushy myrtle beach wave bottom turns) ride down the line, stall and cut back and ride the other direction, even edge up toward the nose a bit.

Surfing is surfing. If its fun you are looking for, if its the passion of the ride, then it shouldn't matter what you get your kicks from. Now I just want to ride everything I can...well, maybe not a coffee table.

board in the works

2008-06-12T11:09:00.002-04:00

I recently interviewed Shawn O'Donnell of Wrightsville Glassing/SOD Surfboards / Dr. Ding and had a chance to see the first board he shaped. That article is in the latest of issue of Local Sessions...so go get your copy today!

I had already started my first "from scratch" board and he really inspired me to get moving to finish mine. I have it shaped about 90 percent with most of the remaining shaping and sanding left on the rails and then a final sanding all over. I picked up a piece of Cape Fear Riverwood to make a noseblock and tailblock. Cool company and 100 year old heart pine recovered from the Cape Fear River will make this board very unique. Currently the nose and tail have been cut off so things look pretty bad right now but my vision of the completed board is still looking very sharp. We shall see if my vision can become reality.

Also, I am now an official member of creativewilmington.com regardless of your creative interest or "bent" its worth a look and a great resource for what is going on in the community that really counts!

And before I sign out for today, I am recommitted to making this a daily blog, or at least several times a week. Focus is still on my surfing thoughts, but I may throw in a few other "found objects" you might enjoy. See you in the water...

Anticipation

2008-04-16T18:18:00.002-04:00

Anticipation. Sometimes good surf just shows up, but more often we see it coming. Technology and a little time and understanding can let anyone predict the arrival of waves. Its that understanding and time thing I don't always have. Tomorrow is predicted at chest high, clean surf. I already have my schedule rearranged. Its been too long to miss this swell.

surf seasons

2008-04-15T10:32:00.003-04:00

When the seasons are changing I think "this is my favorite time of year", but I say that about all of the seasons. What I really like is the change itself and the newness of that change. Solidly in spring now, the water temperature lags a little at 62 degrees and my full wetsuit is still the pick. I might try the springsuit the next time I get a sunny surf session. As much as I bitch about wetsuits, they do the job and keep me surfing all year. They also provide a contrast, and like the changing of the four seasons, the I like this change of the surf season too. I get to strip that suit off and once again feel big blue on my skin, feel the salty ocean water dry on my shoulders under a warming sun. I will revel in that first day released from the neoprene that has bound and restricted me. I will paddle and and pop up and turn down the line as a lighter, stronger surfer. Just give me about 10 more degrees......

ditching

2008-04-02T10:43:00.003-04:00

You can't be a serious surfer for long without ditching something in order to get some surf in your schedule. Thursday before Easter the forecast looked promising and the early morning report was a "4 Wave" rating described as stomach/chest and glassy. The big group meeting wouldn't miss me too much, though the other surfers might notice assuming they weren't out themselves. Having not paddled out much in the weeks before, I was a little rusty and getting out past the shorebreak having just gotten over a bad cold didn't help, but of course this all disappeared with the first ride. The waves wore me out quicker than I expected. I even made the last half of the meeting afterall. Friday I had the day off and caught much smaller, but equally fun waves.

A long dry spell

2008-03-14T11:10:00.002-04:00

I find myself in a long dry spell. For a few weeks now I have not surfed and I can feel something tugging at me. Either the waves have been flat, or when they were good I was out of town or just unable to go. I have my board project started and I need to do a little more shaping. It too has sort of languished a few weeks also. I have skateboarded a little, so there is that to entertain me. The water temp is rising, so warm boardshort days are heading back....

In the Rain

2008-01-14T13:36:00.000-05:00

I have surfed in the rain several times and did so again on Saturday. The middle of January on a sunless, rainy day with only one other surfer in sight was a lonely feeling. I think it was the surreal feeling and sound of the rain on the wetsuit and on the water around me. It was loud but so consistent that things seemed very quiet. I won't try to explain that any further, but its worth a try. If you have ever been looked at funny because you are voluntarily going into the cold ocean in the winter, you should see how those looks are when you add rain to the mix. Yes, maybe I am a little off in the head. However, in my mind its "off" of the norm to a better place. A slightly evolved surf inspired human brain that they would not understand. Perhaps its best. I did see my friend the pelican- this one was alone and headed in close to me as our paths crossed. I think maybe it was the closest I've been to one in flight while surfing- we were both surfing afterall. His big eyes looking at me as he passed seemed human like. In the only way we could communicate really, I am pretty sure he wasn't telling me I was crazy.

gift waves

2007-12-27T13:36:00.000-05:00

I surfed so much this past week I am loosing track of how much I paddled out. The gift of surf is priceless to me and actually having time and waves align is a very good thing. Saturday was choppy and drifty but this size was good. Sunday, my birthday, was a little smaller but much better. I woke early and took off leaving various in laws and my family asleep. Only the visiting pet dog took notice as he lifted is eyes from his comfortable sleeping spot atop my couch. I surfed til I could surf no more and left good waves behind for those arriving with fresh paddling muscles. Monday, Christmas Eve, another early surf gift. The waves lined up nicely and though smaller the conditions were very clean. Riding my trusty 9'6" Will Allison, I managed several nice noserides. Still not perched over the tip of the nose with ten toes, but I am getting there. Any time I am spend on the front third of the board I count. As I progress I suppose I will whittle that down. I figure by the time I can shed the extra 10-15 pounds of wetsuit this summer, I will get there- at least to cheat five...Christmas was a good day on the ocean from what I read on the local report websites, but it was better spent with my family and I figured I was pushing my luck anyway! Yesterday was a great way to end my days off with a great little session on small longboard waves. I rode the Weisbecker Board and with a new, larger center fin was able to get on the nose of that board too...by my current definitions anyway.

The Half Life of Stoke

2007-12-18T15:14:00.000-05:00

Scientists use the term "Half Life" to describe how things decay or diminish most commonly for radioactive materials. I have come to find my own surf stoke half life. Imagine the last wave you caught and that thrill and the euphoria. The last ones I rode were on Sunday- Big, windy, cold surf. I did get beat up a few times and bailed out on more waves than I rode. At the end of the session I only had a handful of rides, but each was intense. Those feelings fuel my love of surfing and that rush embedded in my core may diminish over time, but it will never really go away.

On windy days like that one, the crest of the waves get blown around, in this case blown back by the offshore winds. From behind those peaks its as though a mini rainshower is falling. That same spray often creates personalized rainbows as the bright daylight pierces the mist of sea water.

Walking down the street the next day, I felt the same cold and wind and pulled my coat tighter and tucked my chin down to stay warmer. I don't remember any of the cold of surfing the day before, but do remember most of the other things going on in and near my spot. Like all my surf sessions, this one has a half life, it will diminish in memory and the thrill of the glide will too, but it never goes away completely.

bump in sight

2007-12-11T14:27:00.000-05:00

Its been so flat lately that I not surfed in over a week. I know this not because I keep track on a calendar when I surf, but I can feel the absence, feel the itch, the urge and the thrist for riding waves. There is a bump in sight however! Things are shaping up to be a nice week of medium period waves that will be just right for fixing what ails me. As I have continued my search for my 40th birthday present board for myself, I found a deal on a beginner softop longboard that I couldn't pass up, so that may be my present to myself--- a board that others can surf or learn to surf on. The only stoke near to riding a wave and surfing, really surfing, is that of seeing someone else learn. So, my focus turns to two things...getting priority projects done around the house, and getting my garage ready for the other project- shaping and glassing my own board. I am going to get my blank later this month, maybe next week ...if I am not too busy surfing.

Weekend Surf

2007-12-03T09:58:00.000-05:00

Thanks to an understanding family, I can almost always get some surfing in on the weekends. I have long realized that I can't schedule surfing around days I have available without missing some of the best waves, so I usually get a day in during the week before or after work too. And yes, sometimes I just have to use a little vacation time and surf when there is surf.

This past Saturday I picked up a used soft surfboard. The local surf camp was selling of the seasons used equipment and I have a few people wanting to learn, so this is a good board for that. Of course I had to give it a try! It floats really well and its light, but when I went for some turns it sort of just fizzled out and stopped. The rails are really thick and rounded, and it has three small fins, so maybe it just needs to be ridden straight...

Sunday was better, and I had my regular magic board. The waves were bigger, but the conditions were choppy and there was a southward drift, but overall I caught some good fast rides. Of course this time of year you catch the folks walking along the beach eyeing you like you are crazy, and some old lady started to scold me for walking around without a shirt and shoes as I was still halfway in my wetsuit getting my board strapped in for the trip home. When there is a couple walking, the men usually look at me and with there eyes seem to be saying "show off" , or "i could do that"..and the women seem to be more in wonder and often tend to smile. I don't know what this says about people or me or anything really, but I am a good people watcher and its what I sense. And of course its December now, so everyone asks me if its cold,or if I am cold, or do you get cold. I want to tell them that its just a latex fetish I have! Seriously , the suits work, but there is a price to pay in how you move, and how much quicker I get winded. Occasionally, like on Sunday, you catch women checking you out. I never thought of this as a reason for surfing mind you, after all I am happily married, but even my wife seems to like that I surf. And then there was the attractive red head at the beach that day. She too asked my if I was cold as we passed, but I like to think she was just flirting! Hey- I turn 40 this month, can't a guy have his ego boosted a little!?

Lastly, I went to the Wrightsville Beach Longboard Association oyster roast and Christmas party. It was fun and really the first function as a newly minted member of the club. My wife was impressed that I initiated doing something social (typically I just show up where I am told), but this was all me. Food was good and the company and conversations were better! Next weekend on Friday is the Hope From Helen fundraiser. This non profit is centered in the local surfing community and started as a way to help a local surf shop manager's mother through her illnesses. Now in her memory , the group raises funds for surf related charities like Surfers Healing and other worthy causes. So, I will go to that too and look forward to more camaraderie with fellow surfers.

Just me and the fishermen

2007-11-21T11:42:00.000-05:00

I paddled out this morning to some fun, although a little on the small side, waves. Generally clean, medium period, mostly thigh high with some knee, and some waist high. I try to respect the people fishing, especially when they are in a spot before me, but damn if they don't tend to park themselves where I want to surf. I tried some new wax today made by Magmalabs and I have to say its pretty good stuff. I had just stripped my 9'6" clean and needed wax, but the shop I was at didn't have the sexwax I usually use, and I had recalled something about magamlabs a while back but had not actually seen any in stores. I suppose since I had just dropped $50 on some new booties, they threw the wax in for free (Yes, right- just like there is not such thing as a free lunch, there is no such thing as free surf wax). The stuff is really good and it has little "embers" or color coded temperature specks so you can remember what the leftover chunk of wax actually is and identify what kind is on your stick. Cool, huh?

Today's rides were not memorable per se, but I love every ride I get. I kept jumping on OK waves only to miss the great set behind them because I couldn't get back out in time. This particular spot has a nice sandbar and when I start getting winded, I just stand on the bar waiting for the next ride and push myself and board into the oncoming wave. I am pretty good at that now and with so many smallish days I am self anointed as the shore break king; flat spot on my fin and all! .

Time to Give Thanks

2007-11-20T17:59:00.001-05:00

Two days from Thanksgiving. Things are pretty slow in the office and tomorrow looks like some decent surf for me. Plans are currently to surf in the AM, go to work, surf the AM of Turkey Day then hit the road to visit the in laws a few hours inland. On Friday we come back home and with any luck I can paddle out on Saturday or Sunday. I give much thanks to surfing and all that is has led me to. I do that everyday- give thanks for surfing that is. I can be thankful that the in laws are not coming to our place! I am SO thankful my wife is understanding and supportive of my habit, addiction, evolving way of life (surf life). I am thankful I bought the used local shaped board that is full of surf "mana" and the memorable rides it has carried me upon. I am thankful for neoprene. I am thankful for all those I love and that love me- though it is a short list that doesn't change much. I am thankful for a great job, great kids and wife, and really a pretty great life. Next year perhaps I can be thankful for mastering the art of noseriding and getting barrelled, but for now just catching rides down the line on my log makes me pretty darn happy.

Window Shopping

2007-11-16T09:55:00.000-05:00

I'm window shopping surf shops trying to figure out what board I want to add to my quiver. The only new board I bought was my first- a 7'9" Bic Natural Surf which still has its place. In addition to that, I have 3 longboards, a 6' softop for my little grom, a 5'11" thruster, and a 6'8" big boy thruster- all used with most of them coming from yard sales. I enjoy fixing them up and have replaced a glassed in fin (the most technically challenging of my repairs) fixed many a ding, some small scale delams, small patches, and on one did a major rehab that involved adding a full length "patch" to the deck. I also tinkered with graphics and lately have been trying to study up on design since I fully intend to build a board myself (shape and glass) starting this winter. I have some good Aerialite glass and a local source for Teccel blanks. I will write about that project in the future. I like checking out surf shops anyway, so looking at the various boards gives me ideas about what I might buy and/or build. We have great shapers locally and I am considering having one built for me. My 4oth birthday is around the corner and I even have the blessing from the Mrs. (Actually it was her idea!) and I know they could build just what I need even if I don't know really what that might be myself. I know I can stand up on the 7'9" and with a little more volume that length or something in the vicinity might be good in more of a longboard shape. I have seen some really thick 8 footers that interest me. But I also have seen some shorter boards shaped by Will Allison (shaper of two of my longboards and local surfing legend) that have lots of thickness that maybe I can stand up on. Maybe a good fish might be the call? Then I go completely in the other direction to a big, heavy log. Ten feet plus! Maybe even find a vintage board that is still a rider. The longboard association I just joined has an annual contest with both a classic (pre 1968) and supertanker (11" or longer) division and that might be fun to have something that would qualify for those. But gosh, I don't know that I really get everything I can out of the boards I already have! Maybe I should wait til I break one or take more time to ride these and figure out what I want. You might be thinking we should all have this dilemma....

Any Given Morning

2007-11-13T09:33:00.000-05:00

I recently joined the Wrightsville Beach Longboard Association and though I don't know most of the members it is a good group and I like being with like minded folks. One of the members just had a movie in the local independent film festival, Cucalorus, entitled Any Given Morning. It really was a good film. Thirty minutes of surfing footage, narrative, interviews, and all of it seemed to hit home with me. The link above goes to a static web page, but a trailer is being worked on and she is going to be taking pre-orders for the movie soon.

On this past Sunday and Monday(Veteran's Day Holiday for this bureaucrat) I surfed some OK longboard waves. Sunday I rode the Weisbecker Board, but forgot my leash which was interesting. I was essentially alone in the water as far as surfers went, but there were a lot of people walking on the beach enjoying the bright day and crystal clear, Caribbean blue waters. I wasn't alone in the water if you count the 2 or 3 pods of dolphins. There were maybe 15 or 20 total swimming and feeding as close as 10 yards away. I could see some of the finer details of their markings, things like little notches in their fins. I missed a few good set waves as I preferred to watch the graceful arcs they make in the water. Monday was a better surfing day, cleaner and a little bigger but nothing spectacular. The picture is from the same day and probably a few beach accesses south of where I paddled out. Different board, and I had my leash this time, different waves, different day, same spot; It's continually impressive how different surfing is for me from day to day , session to session. I thought of Any Given Morning and how I am not alone with these thoughts.

Weisbecker and the club with no roster

2007-11-07T17:54:00.000-05:00

A call to action!
I am a fanatic about Allan Weisbecker and his literary works. His latest memoir is out and avaiable. If you have read In Search of Captain Zero and / or Cosmic Banditos... then what are you waiting for...
http://www.banditobooks.com/ezine/books/cygawa/overview

If you don't have any cash...send me and email and maybe you can borrow mine-In a few days a copy I donated with be available at the New Hanover County Library. Or if you want to kill some time online while you are supposed to be working or doing homework...go here...
http://www.banditobooks.com and please join the forum. As a moderator I get a little bored and like the conversations.

What's even better is that he is an accessible kind of guy. Check the website, send a message or give him some feedback and you will see.

Big Days

2007-11-06T09:29:00.000-05:00

Hurricane Noel brought lots of grief to many, but it also brought surf and with that joy to others. Saturday was big, a little chilly (full suit for the first time this season) and fun. I has some trouble getting clean rides because the steepness of the wave faces and my relative lack of higher surf skills made it hard to get past the drop. My pal with his board, 2 feet shorter, had similar problems so maybe it was just tough conditions. I think I had as much fun watching others get good rides on Saturday. I have not seen, with my own eyes in person, that many surfers get barrelled. By this I mean a true, inside the tube and back out again legitimate "getting shacked" experience. That day I did see this happen and more than once. I also saw a local board shaper and was impressed how he maneuvered his longboard on these same waves. Its a little frustrating, but mostly inspiring. I may get a board shaped by this guy one of these days.

Sunday was a different story. It was cleaner conditions, smaller, but plenty big for me. I found myself wishing I had waited and not gone out the day before. My body- arms, shoulders, stamina- was lacking and I found myself having to quit sooner than I wanted to end that session. At the next public access north of me, I could see the kite festival going on and the colors pulled taught against the sky provided a change in scenery. As I stopped I passed along the good news of promising surf to the fellow surfer just getting ready to walk down to the beach. It seems I made him happy even before he got wet.

Feeling small

2007-11-01T14:05:00.000-04:00

The surf has been pretty big the last week or so and I can usually push past the impact zone and get through the breakers and to the outside. I know there is a return on that ivestment, so I "will" it to happen and then just float around and rest for a few minutes once I punch through. I haven't been working out as much lately, telling myself I am getting enough surfing in instead, but this morning I feel pretty small. I couldn't get through, the longboard I was tethered to wanted to get ridden, but I didn't have it in me. I applaud the pair down the beach that made it out. Sometimes I do better when a buddy is with me, maybe its peer pressure, maybe I am just being shamed into paddling harder. All this said, its still a good day when I paddle out. I will sleep well, maybe my muscles have been conditioned a little in preparation for saturday when the effects of TS Noel reach us and clean up.

A Noseride

2007-10-22T10:45:00.000-04:00

Well it happened.

I surfed yesterday in what mostly were just "OK" conditions. The waves had decent size but were inconsistent and a little choppy, but mostly they would have been characterized as mushy. Generally, I move myself along the length of the board trying to enhance or prolong my rides, so I spend plenty of quick moments in that space from maybe 12 inches back from the nose to the place that he fabric inlay ends which is maybe 30 inches back. I like to tell myself that time spent there was noseriding, but I knew it wasn't really a noseride. Its not that I haven't been trying. I know technically and logistically what is supposed to happen and I spend lots of time trying to make quick turns into the face of the wave and head down the line. I try to be graceful in my cross stepping, but I really have not mastered that at all. Its mostly a skip or hop forward and then some backpedal steps. Considering that most of the rides are short anyway, it seems like a pretty efficient, though unattractive, way of moving around the board. After about an hour in the water I seemed to have found my groove. The first few rides of the day were clumsy failures and I noted to myself that proper stretch and warm up were in order from now on. I also had been somewhat distracted by the large youth group that seemed to be engaged in some sort of organized exercise. It reminded me of those government sponsored morning exercises in Japan or China that I had seen photos of, except these teenagers were decidedly foreign as evidenced by there "speedos". Or at least I hope they were. Off on a run to the pier, I resumed focus, or rather lack of focus on anything again and was getting some fun rides.

I paddled, felt the speed pick up and the familiar sensation of catching the wave, and I popped up as I have a thousand times by now. I went right which is never as natural feeling to my goofy stance, but I am pretty comfortable with that now. I was prepared to move forward to find that "glide" by trimming the board with my weight forward or aft but I felt something odd, very odd indeed. Anticipating the rush of sliding down the face of the wave, I stepped (OK- hopped)forward and felt the sensation of my board being held down behind me. I could feel the weight of the wave securely holding my board level. I looked down and could see a large space beneath the nose and I was standing "out there" on said nose. I didn't hang ten or even cheat five, but holy soul arches! Batman I was in fact noseriding. Too shocked and surprised I didn't think to move forward and try a more impressive move, but I did have the composure to backpedal a little at just the right time.

The youth group was far down the beach, a few small groups of people on the shore were busy playing with children or reading. I looked around and gave myself a well deserved, though maybe not really earned, hoot. Among memorable surf days, this one is currently at the top.

State of Mind

2007-10-19T13:26:00.000-04:00

My current state of mind is dulled by a persistent, yet mild head cold. This being the case I am eyeing the surf forecast for tomorrow morning like a kid watching a frosting beater being handed to them. I see it coming, I think its going to be pretty good, and nothing else is really on my mind. I surfed the other night after work. I can't recall through the congestion sitting behind my face now which day that was. I went to my secret spot which really is no secret and paddled out alone. I estimated I had an hour before sunset as I had hurriedly unbuckled the faded straps on my roof rack. I wasted five precious minutes setting everything down and scrambling back and forth to pay for the 30 or so minutes of parking for which I was still responsible. Soon I was joined by two other souls and felt the relief of another human nearby in the water, but not too close. The wind had picked up an things looked a little sloppy, but looks are deceiving and waves are best judged from paddling vantage point. The waves were fun. I think most surfers can interpret this descriptor "fun" easy enough. Fun is getting rides if you give a little effort, fun is not epic or threatening, fun is not likely to give you an individual wave or ride that will stick in your head forever. I look for fun waves tomorrow as a minimum, which is usually pretty easy for me to experience. Since I don't think of much else when I a surfing, the head cold will vanish for a while and my state of mind will be altered.

Flat

2007-10-12T13:49:00.000-04:00

Flat. One little word that relays so much. Yesterday afterwork I surfed in nearly flat conditions and the forecasts only looked flatter, so it was a chance to maybe catch a ride or two. I did catch lots of quick, jump off into shallow water before you break your fin, rides. I adjusted my position to follow the sunlight peaking through and around the two highrise buildings. The water was nearly perfect for me at 80 or so degrees. The cool breeze across my bareback and still tanned skin drove me into the water between rides. Glassy conditions are beautiful and inviting, but often are accompanied by smaller surf. I tend to embrace small days and in my own mind have become the king of shorebreak longboarding. I know there is risk to myself and board but I think I mitigate that fairly well. Floating in nearly the same spot that less than a week before I had felt the thrill of my biggest drop down a wave, the slow moving bumps in the water hardly seemed like they could come from the same ocean. But then the ocean does that and maybe its what keeps surfing so alive and challenging to me. Tomorrow promises to be smaller if that is possible. I suppose the waiting pile of lumber and fencing will have to be addressed, the grass mowed and other projects attended to for a change.

2007-10-09T16:40:00.000-04:00

To give credit where it is due...I found this picture at my favorite local surfing forum and website.. www.wblivesurf.com . I love this site.

Today is Tuesday and the past two days I missed a little work trying to cover child care needs and what I call the "day care shuffle", it happens sometimes and I'd do anything for my little groms, so its no big deal, except...

...did you look at the picture? This is such a pretty wave to me. Smallish, clean, nicely shaped. The winds were almost offshore, the weather is an uncommonly warm 90 degrees and the water is still pretty nice at about 76 degrees. Add to this view that its October and the weekday crowds just don't exist really. Luckily I had two really good surfing days (see previous post) recently, so I can get myself over this angst. I can imagine myself as this unnamed surfer above. I can feel the satisfaction of having successfully timed the wave, popped up and made a turn. The primary difference would have been my turn would have been left as I am goofy; goofy footed that is. Though I really can't "noseride" per se, I do spend a lot of time at the front third or so of the board. Also, I am not so good at cross stepping, so in some viewpoints my almost noserides don't really count anyway.

days to remember

2007-10-07T20:21:00.000-04:00

The past few days surfing are going to be memorable. The waves were pretty big for Wrightsville Beach, and better yet they arrived, or were sustained is perhaps more correct, for the Cape Fear Clean Water Classic surf contest. I am glad they had some waves, and I had good intentions of going to watch for a while, but the waves were too good and my time too limited to go watch someone else surf. Saturday I paddled out at dawn with a friend from work. D. has a great attitude about everything and being a better surfer than I helps push me a little. I apparently help in pushing him to get out on the waves more often. Our third "regular" for the Saturday AM surf was out of town. Probably a good thing as it was bigger than he would be up for, at least I am guessing this would have been the case.

Waves always look and seem a lot smaller from the shore, maybe the perspective or distance does it, but arriving Sunday there was no one out on the waves to give anything scale. The ocean peaks and troughs were substantial and the waves thick. I paddled for a few and missed, then paddled for more and got worked over a few times. There was one wave that I will remember for some time. The thick wave rose up, it looked a little taller and steeper so I knew it was going to break in a good place for me. I had already experienced its peers in failing to get a good solid ride, so I had a sense of what I had to do to stick this ride. Mostly, I just really needed to commit and just ride the thing. The longboard, my favorite board, seemed to pause at the apex of the wave as if both I and the board were taking a deep breath, then, the drop. The wave had pitched up and the face was steep but still nicely A-framed. I raced down and left, the little bump and chop of the day's water translated to little slaps of the wave against board as it chattered down toward the bottom. Things were happening pretty fast though I still managed a little bit of a bottom turn and kept left down the line. In review, D. didn't seem to think I had made the wave but as I made that turn, my head appeared above the wave as seen from behind and he seemed impressed that I stuck this ride. I was exhilarated. The bicep burn I had already been feeling was gone, I back out through the impact zone like I was paddling across mill pond. Its been almost 2 days since and this ride is still fresh on my mind. Today, Sunday, I had more of the same, maybe not so big and not as choppy. Also , I didn't score a ride quite like yesterday. D. and I talked about assumptions in life, assumptions in surfing on Saturday and I reflected on this today. I realize I have a lot to learn and experience yet on my board.

a little homecoming

2007-10-05T15:50:00.000-04:00

I surfed this morning before work. The conditions did not look so great when I arrived at the beach, but the waves had some size and though it was choppy and a little windy, there was no drift to speak of as it had been earlier in the week. I was in a rush to get into the water, so I skipped the coffee (bad mistake), forgot my rashquard (not so bad really) and then slammed the little fastex buckle on my surf racks in my car door. The slow motion view of this pained me until the sound of plastic hitting pavement shocked me back into regular speed viewing. I took a buckle from by backpack and fixed that first. I knew that I would want to surf until the last possible minute before a quick rinse off, dressing in the parking lot and getting to work for a meeting..just in time. I started to wonder if some message was being sent to just go home. Then I looked at the tattered board bag at my feet and I smiled. Inside was my favorite board, but one I had let lay fallow in a sense for several sessions. I bought this board used but it feels like it was made for me custom. There beside me, begging to be ridden, lay my 9'6" Allison Classic Longboard. I don't know enough about why its so good, but Will Allison shaped some magic into this board and the thousands of waves and and boards behind him all culminated into what is easily the best board I've ridden. So, it was a homecoming of sorts for me and my board. Paddling out always feels good on this stick. The white foam and froth of the ocean accentuated the little bit of yellowing this board has now. I have dinged and repaired the board more times than I recall of hand. The Rainbow Fin Company 9.5 Noserider fin, perfectly matched for this board, now has a flat spot where I've done too much "king of the shore break" riding.
I can tell I am a little out of shape by how quickly I felt the "bicep burn" kick in paddling out after each ride today. The board seemed to fall back into rhythm quicker than I and I worked passed the lack of caffeine until I fell back into mine. The rides were mostly short (what else is new), but I had fun. I pushed myself and made deep, rail burying turns just to feel the familiar, but sorely missed feel of that particular shaped board under my feet. We had our reunion, we surfed a little, that board and I. I really like trying any surfboard that I can manage to stand on and I have a few others that are really fun, but lately the best part of riding them has been that I really appreciate the one I surfed today.

My To Do List

2007-10-03T14:53:00.000-04:00

My To Do List

About a year ago, Surfer Magazine published a list of 67 things all surfers should do in their lifetimes. I still have this issue and mentally checked off a few of these must do items. For example, “Surf in the rain” (#26), Done!; I have been riding a super fun 9’1” Power Tools longboard from the mid 80’s, does that count for “Go Retro”,(#22)? There is no rush to complete all 67, and I’m not sure I can or would want to actually. My next significant “To Do” item is #12, “Shape your own board”, and I will let you know how that turns out. Currently the plan is for something about 8 feet long and thick. One of the items, #25, suggests teaching someone to surf. I am doing this a little with my son, but he is young and I let him move at his own pace. Still, I have never been more stoked than seeing him stand and ride for the first time. I am far from being a seasoned surfer, but still I enjoy helping a co-worker by sharing what I know about surfing and be there to patch him up when he loses a round of fin vs. man. I know how much of an impact surfing has on me, so I am cautious about teaching others and won’t push it on anyone. For those that struggled for some time before it finally “clicked”, you can appreciate every small step forward your wave riding skills can move, and being on the teaching end can be pretty rewarding too. Teaching is a good way to learn and refine your own skills; after all, you don’t want to pass on something flawed or unsafe. It is more than that, because you have to communicate something that ultimately just has to be felt or experienced. Things like balance, just as you learned when you first rode a bike without training wheels, are hard to describe or teach. Of course those of you riding boards shorter than you are tall might think my thick, 9’6” longboard is just a surfboard version of training wheels. The whole surfing and equilibrium thing makes me think about how keeping in balance isn't about making all things equal but rather a continuous search or dance. If you keep everything equal all of the time then nothing ever changes. Maybe the lessons learned or taught through surfing go beyond the act of riding a wave. I enjoy the “dance” that takes place as I try to squeeze a few more moments from a ride, edging forward, then back, looking for that glide. I don’t know what I look like as I do this dance, and maybe I don’t want to know. I have a few boards now that I can actually ride, and switching from one to the other has taught me much about balance, and how keeping everything too familiar does not let you evolve as a surfer. So I will use the list of 67 things, ride as many different boards as I can, and keep honing my surfers dance to keep a little balance. I’m going to need this if #13, (Get shacked) is ever going to get checked off.

See you in the water.

surf writing submissions

2007-10-02T14:02:00.001-04:00

a few of my "written in wax" submissions to the local surfers magazine.....

Secret Spot

I realize its taboo to discuss secret spots but I will try not to reveal yours, though I might just. Secret spots are by their nature a little mystical and hold some magic for their owners. You read about them on your local online surfing forums especially when they had just been firing off with chest high barrels just minutes away from the sloppy, pond like conditions that I was enjoying at the same time. Apparently there must be some secret time element to this thing too as it never fails that those most desirable of waves occurred in the past and less so in the present. Some spots have names which I don’t dare reveal in ink, but even not so secret places are treated as such. Perhaps if they remain secret to even just one person maybe they retain their magic.

I have a secret spot. The lay of the land there is such that the ocean isn’t revealed so easily, and the walk down to the wet sand where I pause to attach my leash is farther than some spots I visit. I have never gotten barreled in my spot (ok, this is misleading since I have never been barreled anywhere yet), nor is it always chest high, glassy, A-frame lefts nicely lined up. Really, its not even secret, actually it’s right at a public beach access. You can go there right now and if you can find a free spot, it’s all yours. If I see you at my secret spot, then you will be my secret surf soul sister or brother for that little bit of time though I will not likely know or ask your name. I will give you wide berth not because I am unfriendly, but more likely I need it to keep my fin safely out of your tail.

This secret spot I speak of is really more than the “place”. Truth is, my secret spot lies deeper within and exists wherever it is I happen to paddle out. No, that isn’t really true either because I don’t even need my board or be within sight of the ocean to go to my secret spot. I carry this feeling around with me always and it’s easily accessible. Surfing has graced me with a secret spot that not everyone gets to have. I worked hard for this spot over the last few years. I wake early when others are still sleeping so that I can weave surfing with the rest of my life. I paddle out in the cold of February and I paddle out even when it’s flat sometimes. I fix my own dings and bring life back to old boards. I kindle the stoke I find in others, and I try to leave the beach and ocean better than I find it each time.

Sometimes I glide across waves as I sit in traffic, take a moment to stretch at my desk, or when I doze off to sleep at night. Of course I have visited my secret spot in my dreams on those nights I am lucky enough to remember… but I still haven’t gotten barreled there either.

See you in the water.

Surf Karma and Surfers Healing

Good waves and great rides are not just handed out every day around here. Learning to read and understand weather patterns and tracking down all the surf cams is a good start, but what you really need is some positive surf karma. If you have any good karma at all there are some really good ways to lose your surf karma. There has been an epidemic of stolen boards around here. If you steal another surfer’s board, you are doomed to a life of bad surf karma and you should probably take up croquet or something. Of course dropping in on someone, snaking a wave or endangering swimmers because you are showing off will cost you a few karma points, but don’t despair, you can earn them back. Sharing your wax, teaching someone to surf, helping a stranger with their stuck wetsuit zipper, helping someone in distress, picking up trash on the beach, all of this will help earn your way toward good surf karma and I promise, better surfing.

The other day Surfer’s Healing (www.surfershealing.org) was back in town and I spent the day doing my little part to help. This organization was founded by a surfer after discovering how the ocean and surfing seemed to have a therapeutic effect on his young, autistic son. That day they shared, at no cost to the participants, the amazing feeling of surfing with over a hundred autistic children of all ages. Positive Surf Karma was thick in the air as children were transformed, if only for that moment, by surfing. The sounds of crying replaced by laughter as these kids glided on 12 foot tandem boards with what can be best described as true watermen and treated to some surprisingly fun looking waves. There were many people volunteering and much praise should go to the organizers of this event, both local and with the Surfers Healing organization, but it’s the surfers that flew in for this event that impacted me the most. I have watched lots of surfing on the beach, or on videos and yes many gifted, hard working surfers can do amazing things and tricks on a wide range of boards. That being said, I have never been more impressed by any surfer more than these incredibly friendly 7 or 8 guys surf for over 6 hours with little you could call a break, on huge tandem boards entrusted with the lives of these very special kids and do it all with style and incredible stamina. As the event neared the end, I recall one of the darkly tanned surfers who was among those who came from Hawaii, when most of us would have been exhausted and lifeless, lift a kid up on his shoulders as he glided down the line. I think a few of the surfers were some of our own local guys, and the others came in from California and Hawaii, but what they did that day was perhaps the most impressive surfing I have seen and I don’t think they can ever run dry of good surf karma. If you missed this event, there are plenty of other opportunities to make a positive contribution to surfing inspired charities and benefit events. If surfing has been good to you, then take this challenge and find a way to build your surf karma.

See you in the water.

Venturing Out

When I finally achieved some success surfing, and by that I mean standing more than a millisecond and actually choosing when to “dismount” the board, I found myself very reluctant to venture beyond one spot. The parking was easy, the waves never crowded (nor ever that great) and there is a shower and public restroom available for at least part of the year. I had enough to contend with trying to become proficient and in my mind I decided to take whatever this spot would give which was mostly some sense of familiarity and comfort. As confidence and skills began shaping up, I ventured outward to discover other places that suited my surfing needs and wants. In fact for some time, if you ignore the “tourist” lesson in Hawaii on a 12 foot soft top, my surfing experiences were confined to about 100 miles of coast between Topsail Island and Myrtle Beach.

I suspect many of our local surfers reach some point where the depth of your skills needed some balancing with the breadth of surfing experiences. Experiences that come with some exploration whether that is driving a few hours north, or traveling to the opposite side of the globe, or maybe just trying someone else’s board on a fun Saturday morning. Now, I can’t imagine taking a vacation without the chance to surf something. I recently had the opportunity to be in central California and found myself picking my way via subway and public bus to a spot that rented boards and a wetsuits before the long plane ride back home. I will tell you, you can never appreciate the beaches we have until you have surfed with a hundred other people in the water around you. The terrain and views around me, even the rocky makeup of the beach under my feet felt very surreal to this southeastern North Carolina surfer. Described as a beginner or novice beach break, I was faced with large, thick surf and an unforgiving impact zone to cross before any waves were to be caught. Quickly reminded of the love / hate relationship I have with wetsuits, I paddled into my first west coast wave. I caught several good waves and the length and speed of the rides is what stands out about that day…well, that and breaking a leash for the first time and having to swim back in. Did I mention the unforgiving impact zone and the wetsuit? I wouldn’t trade this adventure, but I was glad to get back in our warm waters while I can still surf bareback for a while this season.

All of this reminds me that there are so many places I have never been let alone surfed. I will keep venturing out, and looking for chances to ride the various waves around the world if I am so fortunate, but I am going to start here in my back yard and venture out and see what new spots I can ride nearby.

See you in the water.

The Food Chain

Some may know George at OnShore Surf Shop in Surf City, and as this is a local magazine, I won’t spend much more time on him other than a few words of advice he gave to me freely. They were really just truths that were shared and that I have always kept as part of my surfing knowledge. A 7’9” BIC was my first board from George and though he may not remember me well, it’s hard to forget him or these “truths”. The first was that I should take the bar of wax he had given me and rub it all over the board nice and thick. I did this like I was the karate kid in the famous “wax on, wax off” scene, and I still do use lots of wax as is evident on nearly every inch of 9’6” longboard. Maybe its wishful thinking on my part that I will use those 18 or so inches of the nose for much more than holding wax, but one of these days I will elegantly cross step to that place and hang at least a few toes over while riding a wave.

Enough of that…truth number two from this embodiment of surfing was simply that once you got past your ankles in the ocean, that you were part of the food chain. This was said like only a long haired (at the time), mustached, flip flop wearing, and blank foam dust covered guy could say. I repeat this today whenever others ask me about jellyfish and sharks, with not nearly quite the same effect. Yesterday I thought about this truth a little more intently. Surfing gives a unique perspective on the ocean not just as a scenic backdrop or watery playing field, but as a living thing. From the earliest days of surfing, I have marveled at the life that the big blue sea holds within that relatively small space where waves heave up after traveling from places far beyond. I have seen countless pelicans; a session without seeing my friends the pelicans seems incomplete. I have “experienced” jellyfish and still find them to be the most mysterious of creatures. The first sting felt like a right of passage and its itchy scar a badge of honor. Subsequent stings quickly have quickly lost this charm. I’ve seen fish up close that ranged from the tiny unidentified bait that puddle up on the nose of my deck as I paddled through a wave, to the foot long silvery specimen that hopped out of the water in front of me just feet away, to the barracuda that jumped out right behind in hot pursuit. I was so close, and it came as such a surprise that I didn’t have time to be afraid, just utterly amazed. Dolphins seen from the shore are a treat and almost always create a stir of cameras and pointing fingers but from atop a surfboard at 10 feet away they are majestic and awe inspiring. The wet, grey muscular bodies arc up in that familiar fashion and then disappear leaving most surfers feeling pretty inadequate in the water. The lucky surfer might catch them at play riding a wave or thrusting their sleek bodies completely out of the water (you try that next time you are out swimming). All these wonders plus the crabs and little clams make for an interesting view of this food chain with you more or less on top. Its not until you see the shark do you feel yourself as part of the food chain. So when I saw that dark dorsal fin, I started to smile anticipating that familiar arc of the dolphin, an arc that never came. This fin moved slower and stayed level and was heading my way. Instincts are a great thing so I paddled to shore for a few minutes and I finally appreciated what the waterman from Surf City meant.

an older surfer

2007-10-01T15:47:00.001-04:00

In about 3 months I will turn 4o. This does not bother me, and I don't think about it much. Most birthdays of my 20's and 30's are pretty uneventful actually. I feel younger these past few years than the years before, so I think I am pretty fortunate. Last year I surfed on my birthday. Being two days before christmas can be tricky time to go surfing. I certainly don't want the visiting inlaws to think I would rather surf than spend quality time with my extended family...

Anyway, last year the water was cold on December 23rd and choppy, and windy, and had a north to south drift that felt like a whitewater canoe ride more than a surf session. I paddled out anyway because it was my birthday and I could not imagine anything else I'd rather be doing. This December will only be significant because the wife tells me I should get something really special for my fortieth birthday..a surfboard she suggests...

Buying a new longboard of the quality that I would want is no minor expense, at least in terms of my relative wealth, but then again I rarely spend a lot of money on my self and I like to think that surfing is a lot cheaper than say..golfing, or boating. Its also something that I would have thought to be really easy to do. Afterall I "window shop" boards all the time. The buyers guide in every issue of Longboard Magazine is like the Dupont Registry of surf. One of the boards caught my eye in the issue I just recieved..the Infinity Secret Weapon. I was and mostly still are leaning toward a locally shaped and glassed just for me longboard, but the Secret Weapon was intriguing. I made the mistake of going by Sweetwater Surf Shop near my favorite break, where they by chance had not one, but two Secret Weapons. I think any surfer would be impressed by the obvious volume of space this board occupies. It was easily 4 inches thick...I am not so sure I could hold this board under my arm and I really would not care either!

So, you might see me on a new board..or maybe I will just keep riding what I have and love...

Allan Weisbecker redux

2007-09-28T16:18:00.000-04:00

http://www.banditobooks.com/

Go visit the site. Buy a book if you are so inclined, but this is not a book website. Its a thing, a meeting room , or vacation getaway for those who belong to the club without a roster.

A few years ago when I 1st made my 2nd attempt at surfing, I began to devour the surfing world and culture in any way I could. In part this included reading about surfing, surfers, and books written by surfers. Then it hit me like pillowcase full of sexwax..I found "In Search of Captain Zero" and then soon after "Cosmic Banditos" by Allan Weisbecker. His website talked about his plight to get his next book..Can't you get along with anyone" published. I finally just emailed the address on his website to tell him what his works meant to me and I actually got a reply. I never met the guy in person, but I'd say he was a friend. In a surreal sense, we need each other. If you have never read anything by Weisbecker, I would suggest reading In Search of Captain Zero first, then maybe just wait a few months and read the others. Then wait a year or so and read them all again.

2007-08-30T11:32:00.000-04:00

A week ago at this time I was in Myrtle Beach with family. This part of SC is not know for particularly good waves, but then I am accustomed to so -so waves, shore break conditions and knee high mush anyway. In fact, I have come to appreciate the value of not judging a wave unless I am in the water. Sure, when you see your favorite spot looking like pond on a still day you probably won't get any good rides, but otherwise you might be surprised what you would have missed when you just paddle out and see for yourself. I enjoyed half a dozen really fun sessions over three days on imperfect, knee to waist range waves. I did not get the thrill catching a big, fast wave or have the chance for a nice swooping bottom turn, but I did get a chance to practice and push my skills in getting down the line and adjusting my planing to get the best, longest rides. Of course none of this was possible without my trusty steed. The 9'6" Will Allison Classic Longboard, complete with the seahorse (hence the steed reference) logo. This is a beautiful board. Its beauty is now somewhat imperfect with the several repaired dings, scratches and a few discolorations, but its beauty comes in its ride and maybe because it has so much of my soul in it now. On one of those small Myrtle Beach waves I managed to collide my elbow into its thick rounded rails. Both the rail and the elbow lost out on that... The elbow healed, but the board required my help getting fixed. Once I cleaned out its wound of loose or cracked fiberglass and foam I carefully added filler to the void, then 2 layers of cloth and more resin. A quick sanding should smooth out the rough edges and it will be seaworthy again. I may give too much credit to this inanimate object, but its soul, born in its shaper's and fed by mine and its other riders, is something very real to me.

2007-08-20T11:06:00.001-04:00

Its been a few weeks. I participated as a volunteer the other day for Surfer's Healing. The organization pairs the surfing world with autistic children. It was an impressive day and I plan to write about this some more. I met some guys from Hawaii who completely embody the whole concept of a surfer. I have seen lots of surfers do amazing tricks and such, but the most impressive surfers I have experienced were these 5 or 6 guys who surfed almost 6 hours , on 12 foot plus tandems with autistic children under their care as they navigated the waves.

Also, this past saturday has firmed up my belief that you should just paddle out even when it doesnt look so hot. I had some of the best rides of my life on what most would deem a "so so" day. Of course I still have a lot of experience to gain, and those rides may pale to future ones, but for now, I have impressed even myself. Lately I have been pushing my skill level, really trying to make better turns and get longer rides down the line. Hurricane Dean, deep in the Gulf of Mexico and unfortunately now proven to be a deadly storm has also sent a gift to surfers here in southeastern North Carolina. I will likely go out this evening, tomorrow morning , or maybe both..

Pacifica, Linda Mar Beach and the Rent-a-log

2007-08-06T14:16:00.001-04:00

I arrived in Pacifica, CA on Saturday via the metro and public bus from San Francisco. All my luggage was in storage at the airport and I was able to travel pretty easily. The bus stop was in walking distance to at least 3 surf shops and I chose The Log Shop on Crespi Avenue in case you ever make it there. More pictures are on my Flickr account. I rented a well used 9'6" SurfTech soft top board with a great fin- it was a "Fluid Foil" by FCS I believe. The fellas at the Log Shop were great, letting me use there changing room and then storing the little bag of stuff that I had brought along. I remember feeling the excitement in my chest as I walked over the little hill that had blocked my view from the street where I had landed. The ocean was a little choppy, bigger waves than expected and the crowd in the water was really surprising. I estimated at least 100 surfers, mostly on the south half of the mile long beach. The far northern side is a little rockier, and no one seemed to be surfing there, so I took this as a cue. That being said, I was not interested in trying to surf the same wave as 20 others, so I went to the northern edge of the crowds near the middle of this beach. As the day went on and the tide rose, things seemed to get choppier and the wave size dropped. The pictures are from that part of the day, but I surfed at lower tide and much larger wave sets it seemed. I am quite certain that I surfed my largest waves and longest rides to date at Linda Mar this past Saturday.

There were many people in the surf as indicated, but to add to the mix is that most of these were beginners or at best novices. In fact, I was feeling pretty competent and skilled in comparison to many of the others I saw, but mostly I recall that most of the big crowds didn't seem to be surfing at all, just taking up valuable space in the lineup. Before I paddled out, I realized that my leash swivel had worn out and kept coming apart. Not wanting to walk back for another, I tied it up in knots and paddled out. This will become more relavent later. I caught a few smallish, shorebreak kind of waves and found that the soft top responded well and was very floaty. The whitewash was thick, fast and powerful too. Each time was a bear to get back out, so I decided to move outside a little farther. Soon I realized that the relatively light lineup around me was mostly better surfers that actually were catching some waves. Partially as a matter of respect for the "locals", and mostly my own lack of confidence in being able to route myself around human obstacles, I gave the others a lot of room and found myself on the outside, soaking in the reality that I was surfing in California. That, and I was trying to get my strength and wind back after a hard paddle through the impact zone on my rent-a-log.

My time came. I found myself surprised by some impressive sets that rolled past me. They were much larger than I am used to, but they were deep and had a thick A-frame shape that was not intimidating. I paddled hard and felt myself starting to slip quickly down the face of the wave. I popped up had the luxury of what was to be a nice long ride. On my local breaks, I don't always have the wave or time to make a nice bottom turn and get positioned for a long breaking wave. The rent-a-log was thick and floated me so well I felt like I was riding above the waves a few times. I will not soon forget those rides and maybe never.

I experienced several rides like this, each time the adreniline from the previous ride was enough to push me back through the shorebreak. So when my leash broke, or rather my knot worked loose, I found myself in large breaking waves, in a 4/3 wetsuit and relying on the same muscles and stamina that I had been abusing for the last hour or so. I am a good swimmer, but I realized right then I really need to be a great swimmer, something I will work on for sure. Moving waves on a shoreline make forward movement difficult, and the added weight and constraint of a wetsuit only adds to the problem. I struggled a little, but I saw a few surfers around me and - I think anyway- had I called out for help if I needed it, they would have. A small group of tourists on the beach found my board and moved it on to the shore, they seemed concerned or maybe curious, or perhaps just waiting to be on the front row of some morbidly curious lost surfer show. Not sure if I disappointed them by pulling myself to solid ground, but they were happy enough to take credit for catching my board.

I rested for some time, then walked back to the surf shop. Somewhere along the way I went from turning in my gear and calling it a day to trading in the broken leash for a new one. After a gatorade and a few more minutes on the beach, I was ready to resume. Upon making my way out again, now with a very stout Dakine leash the clerk took of the retail wall, I was securely tethered to my board. The heavy crowds had pushed closer to my spot, and I took the opportunity to scan the others. There was the 50 something, tall , thin Ralph Lauren look-alike on an epoxy Stewart (who knows maybe he surfs Linda Mar?) that helped me get my wetsuit zipper unstuck earlier . There was a stocky guy with a shave head and a bent nose that was on a shortboard, from whom I did my best to stay clear. There were two younger women out together on some performance longboards. They seemed pretty agile and I was impressed that they charged as hard as anyone, though they seeme to come and go pretty quickly. Another shortboarder with a long curly hair and beard. We passed each other pretty close and I took the liberty of saying hello, which was not returned and he seemed to keep a healthy distance from me afterward. There was an asian guy about my age maybe, on a really nice looking board- certainly not a rental. I don't think he ever really made it past the impact zone. There were loads of rental boards and little groups of those who were at a point that I was maybe 2 years ago. Time flies when you are having fun.....

More pics from this trip at http://www.flickr.com/photos/surflongboards/sets/72157601254786940/

See what Surfline has to say at...http://www.surfline.com/reports/report.cfm?id=5013

Heading to San Francisco

2007-08-01T05:27:00.000-04:00

I am attending and speaking at a conference in San Francisco this week and I am in the airport now waiting to depart. Almost immediately once I confirmed the conference details, I started thinking about how I might manage to go surfing while there. There is a myriad of online resources of course, and I am impressed by how the so called "flat days" at west coast spots are likely bigger than our average days here at our local breaks. My plan is to check conditions first at Ocean Beach on the pacific facing coast of the San Francisco peninsula. Its supposed to be sort of big and difficult most times, but if its a smallish day there, I will rent from Aqua Surf Shop and can get there on street cars and walking. The other more likely options is to make my way about 20 minutes south to Pacifica and Linda Mar beach. Several shops rent there and its a more beginner break and longboard suited. We will see.

favorite surfers

2007-07-25T16:05:00.000-04:00

Southeastern North Carolina has produced many great surfers and if you pay attention or are the type that follows this kind of thing then you can likely name them as well as I can. I have a lot of favorite surfers, but I can’t name most of them. I recognize them out in the surf and you might too. One favorite surfer is the little kid not quite strong enough to paddle out or into a wave, but once someone gives a little push they drop down the face and make turns like a champ. Imagine how good they might be one day. Another is the old guy (and I say this in the most respectful way) who managed to get his 10 foot log out past the big, churning impact zone and caught good rides while meanwhile I got put in my place and was left bruised, breathless and wave less. I also have a high regard for those in our midst that that shape and glass those works of art that carry us and move us across the waves- our waves. Not only can they surf, but they can magically transfer that feeling into a thing, a shape. You may know their names, but if you don’t be sure to ask around and then go buy a local shaped board when you have the chance or the means. One of my favorite surfers pops up now and again at my favorite spots and I like to think we watch each others backs when no one else is out. I will never forget standing on a foggy day facing a wave that I could only hear and not see. That favorite surfer showed up just when I thought donning a wetsuit might not be worth the hassle. His soul standing there next to me provided an invisible push that morning and I had one of the most memorable sessions ever. Other favorites are of the fairer sex. I don’t tend to segregate surfers as men and women otherwise, but the truth is that women surfers add a grace and style that I just don’t have. Then there is that group I always see around. Sometimes just two show up, other days maybe five or six. They always catch the right waves, follow the best lines, and then effortlessly are back out for the next set. Yes, these favorite surfers are my friends the pelicans. I have another favorite surfer. With the exception of maybe my kids, he is no one else’s favorite. I admit that one of my very favorite surfers is me. I am my own favorite because when I am in the act surfing, I can’t think about anything or anyone else. And in that moment, I doubt you could convince me otherwise.

See you in the water.

Secret Spot

2007-07-24T10:41:00.000-04:00

I submitted this to a local surf publication. I am not sure it will be published, but it is one of the reasons I decided to start this blog....

I realize its taboo in the surf culture to discuss secret spots but I will try not to reveal yours, though I might just. Secret spots are by their nature a little mystical and hold some magic for their owners. You read about them on your local online surfing forums especially when they had just been firing off with chest high barrels just minutes away from the sloppy, pond like conditions that I was enjoying at the same time. Apparently there must be some secret time element to this thing too as it never fails that those most desirable of waves occurred in the past and less so in the present. Some spots have names which I don’t dare reveal in ink, but even not so secret places are treated as such. Perhaps if they remain secret to even just one person maybe they retain their magic.

I have a secret spot. The lay of the land there is such that the ocean isn’t revealed so easily, and the walk down to the wet sand where I pause to attach my leash is farther than some spots I visit. I have never gotten barreled in my spot (ok, this is misleading since I have never been barreled anywhere yet), nor is it always chest high, glassy, A-frame lefts nicely lined up. Really, its not even secret, actually it’s right at a public beach access. You can go there right now and if you can find an empty parking spot, it’s all yours. If I see you at my secret spot, then you will be my secret surf soul sister or brother for that little bit of time though I will not likely know nor ask your name. I will give you wide berth not because I am unfriendly, but more likely I need it to keep my fin safely out of your tail.

This secret spot I speak of is really more than the “place”. Truth is, my secret spot lies deeper within and exists wherever it is I happen to paddle out. No, that isn’t really true either because I don’t even need my surfboard or be within sight of the ocean to go to my secret spot. I carry this feeling around with me always and it’s easily accessible. Surfing has graced me with a secret spot that not everyone gets to have. I worked hard for this spot over the last few years. I wake early when others are still sleeping so that I can weave surfing with the rest of my life. I paddle out in the cold of February and I paddle out even when it’s flat sometimes. I fix my own dings and bring life back to old boards. I kindle the stoke I find in others, and I try to leave the beach and ocean better than I find it each time.

Sometimes I glide across waves as I sit in traffic, take a moment to stretch at my desk, or when I doze off to sleep at night. Of course I have visited my secret spot in my dreams on those nights I am lucky enough to remember… but I still haven’t gotten barreled there either.

See you in the water.

2007-07-23T14:57:00.000-04:00

Starting a Blog is a little like starting a journal, or a letter as much thought will occur before the writing starts. Most of this will be related to surfing- not the internet mind you, but surfing the ocean waves. More about all of this later...