Safe Passage

Latest contribution to Local Sessions Magazine... get a copy at your local shop cape fear shop for lots of great pics and original content...


Craigslist Post: surf board - $25
one full size surfboard with safety rope, it belonged to my son but he is in heaven now


that is all it said. Reading this posting I felt lucky and hoped I replied in time. When I opened the ad and read this simple statement I really had to pause. Lots of emotions and thoughts about life, surfing and surfers who have passed fell onto me like a good rainstorm. I felt a deep sadness as I thought about my perfect children and how very much I love them and couldn’t fathom losing them ever. I can clearly see the smile on my son’s face as he turned back from the shore to look at me standing in the ocean searching for a “thumbs up” of approval as he surfed in for the first times. Anyone who has ever surfed has the privilege of feeling a little closer to his or her maker and perhaps that is why I felt compelled to see if the board was still available not because I need another board (whoa…did I actually write that !? ) but rather I really wanted that kindred spirit to be nourished and given new life and I had something in mind.

I troll around craigslist looking for boards, some to fix and resell, some to ride, and even broken ones for art projects. So yes, I don’t really “need” a surfboard I suppose. Giving life to old or broken things is very satisfying. Fixing up an old longboard that was nearly part of the landfill into homage to a favorite writer (the Weisbecker Board) became an obsession, and I just finished one art piece from thruster with a broken tail for the Art to Heart auction to benefit Duke Children’s Hospital that used the surface of the board as a canvas. This board however had already found a new home. Maybe to be resold, or hung up somewhere, but ultimately I hope that board finds the ocean again since my plans to paint it and give it a new, multifaceted life as a surfboard, art and donation for charity events won’t work out with this one- but I will find another.

Still, this unnamed surfer will be given a little more life here among us; at least this is my hope. If we remember people, then a part of them keeps living and if we can pass these memories or things along, then maybe they are never fully gone, and they live forever. One thing I dwelled on much after a friend passed on some years back, is that I would have much rather been driving to go see him living and not driving to a memorial in his honor. So, go see your friends and family, don’t take them for granted.

Life and Surfing becomes synonymous to many. I don’t know much about some of the people I surf with; often I don’t know their names even if I have seen them a dozen times and even chatted with them. I do know that they are a surfer. Someone who shares the thrills of the ride, or utter awe at the ocean’s beauty and power, or maybe they too find a lot of calm and peace in the ocean. As I go left, sliding down the line on a glassy wave, I thrust my hand into the wave face, and I’m connected and time no longer exists. It doesn’t stop or slow down, it’s just not there. As I paddle out for a dawn patrol session, I breathe in the ocean air, and float facing the sunrise and experience one of surfing’s great pleasures. I know nothing about this surfer, and not much about others that have passed on really, but I don’t need do. I didn’t need to know anything else about this man and his son.

Now and again we lose a fellow surfer and remember them by paddling out and joining together in the ocean that drew them in and gave them new life as surfer. Isek Dinesen wrote…”The cure for anything is salt water: sweat, tears or the sea…”, and so wishing fellow wave riders a safe passage beyond in this way is really more for us, for those left behind. I am guessing the waves are always warm, glassy and chest high where they are now and the paddle out is always easy. I hope I have given a little more life to this surfer, and others you might think of now. See you in the water. Contact me at Writteninwax@gmail.com with ideas, suggestions or for no reason at all…

season has changed

Wearing a wetsuit for the first time marks a change of season for me each year. Winter, which really in my North Carolina surfing terms goes from late fall to early spring, is that elongated season of wearing a full suit. Yes, there is the harsh, dead of winter around February surfing that really sets you apart from the weaker, casual surfer- but its all still "winter" to me. Spring and Fall surf seasons are fairly short at my local breaks. They seem like a few weeks of transition between full neoprene maybe just a wetsuit type shirt or vest, or maybe a few days where you surfed in board shorts but could have used a little warmth. The other elongated season is Summer. As a kid they seemed much longer than they have as an adult, but thanks to surfing, I have managed to stretch them out once again to include part of spring and fall too! The cool water does wonders for thinning out the crowds, but I still love surfing in warm air and warm water.

Win a Greg Eavey Board to Benefit Surfers Healing

I just saw this and I would love to win this board. What I would love more is for everyone to buy a ticket or 10 or 20 and benefit the amazing Surfers Healing foundation locally.

http://www.wblivesurf.com/news.asp?id=503

Check the link for more info and good luck on winning!

Longboard Magazine Art of Surfing edition is out

Longboard Magazine just sent me the latest annual surf art issue. If I am ever going to get onto the pages of this magazine, artwork will be the only way. Also a big kudos to Tony Silvagni for his 2nd place finish in the Honda US Open of Surfing longboard division...very cool for us here in the cape fear area. Tony has legitimately gotten himself on those pages a few times.

Big surf is hanging around from the coastal storm that kicked up the last few days, and this weekend promises to provide some fun waves...we shall see.

cool air warm water

This is a great season to be surfing...as in early fall as the air cools a little but the water is warm. There is something surreal about walking into an ocean that is warmer than the air around you. Still, I saw my first full wetsuit of the season on a guy. I was embarrassed for him actually. This is NC, not N. CA.... The surf was strange too, like it wasn't quite meant for me to surf those last two days. At least the body boarders and kayakers were having fun.

Which reminds me... though I try hard to keep good surf karma. I really don't appreciate a pack of body boarders parking in front of me. I was happy to let it go and paddle elsewhere til you boasted that you ran off the surfers. Yep, that is why I parked right next to you. Next time just whisper....

Whoa, where did that come from? Here is a little good karma to offset things. Don't forget the Art to Heart charity event and art auction... its a cool way to earn $$ for a worthy cause...and besides I donated a piece and I need at least one or two bids to save face...

Max and the surfing trophy

I made my son a surfing trophy commemorating his first real, standing up on a board for more than 1 second surf. This was last June or July. A broken arm this spring set him back a little, but this past weekend he really showed both the ability and "stoke". The waves on Bald Head Island were perfectly shaped but really small. The water was relatively shallow, so walking out into the calm waters and giving him a little nudge into the wave was all he needed to catch long rides. His balance is getting better and he told me he was trying to turn more. All this on an old beater performance longboard I had just days before gotten seaworthy. We head back later in the week for more, the conditions may not be so good for him then. He asked if he was going to get another trophy. Of course he will.

Lil, the youngest rode with me on several waves, fast rides all the way into shore. I think she will be surfing by next year...

surfer, dude

I am always so hungry for surf movie, not just a documentary or series of patched together surf footage, but a real surf movie that Surfer, Dude is looking pretty good. I like all the actors, and the concept. For all of the naysayers...go out and make a surf related movie...I will probably go watch it, rent it and maybe even buy it! Me and my little grom and best gal are looking forward to seeing it on the big screen...