highway to surf

You notice a fair amount of surfboards on I-40 traveling to and fro.
We need to remember how sacred this gift is to live on the coast where
going for a surf can be spontaneous.

Where did all that time go?

Wow- I have lost track of blog time. Its been nearly 3 weeks since a post but since no one really reads this anyway(yet) I suppose I am relatively safe. I have enjoyed a lot of smallish days and have scored some really great rides. I have been getting some nice rides down the line where I have stuck my hand in the wave to slow down, even thought I might get a little "head dip" barrel a few times. Those rides really feel like time shuts down. I can see and feel so much, and I see the rest of the world slow down around me.

A few of those days I was riding near some groms, though "grom" may not be quite right since some of them probably have been surfing as long or longer than me anyway. You can spot the local kids who know how to paddle and catch waves, their tan skin and confidence in the water is easily contrasted by the awkward, pale kids trying to paddle twice and often much to late for any kind of success. I tend to not look back too much in life, except regret for not surfing sooner.

Glass Glider

Another great day at the beach!. I surfed this past Saturday AM on some memorable, glassy waves. It wasn't a big day, but the other conditions made for some perfect longboarding. At one point as I floated next to my board, before I hopped back on to paddle out I actually kissed the salty, wax covered deck of my board. I was overcome by the surreal feeling of the previous wave. If anyone saw me, I apologize for that...it was a private moment between man and his surfboard. The water was so smooth and glassy I could feel the wave, or rather the board's interface with the wave like I had never experienced before. Perhaps with added experience we get a better feel for minor changes in conditions. On that same ride time slowed down and as I crouched and sped down the line, I could see the breaking wave to my left and I reached out to feel the glassy waters part as my fingers slipped inside the wall of this wave. I wanted that ride to last forever....

Berthaaaaahh

Never was a woman's name so sweet as Bertha. After watching and waiting for more than a week the swell finally arrived in time, and by chance, I arrived in time for her. The same swell down in Myrtle Beach somehow just wasn't working so well. Its interesting how geology and geography can make a big difference with the relatively little "distance" between there and good ol' Wrightsville Beach. The Sweetwater Pro/Am could not have had it any better and Tony Butler seems to have pulled off a great event. I just hope he had a chance to surf a little of Bertha's waves. Sunday morning may have been the best surfing I've had, certainly the best of the year. As far as I could see on either side of me, surfers lined up to catch the waist, chest and higher glassy waves. Mostly , there seemed to be a good vibe, people spread out and got along. It was just too good to waste time doing anything but surf. Occaisionally a monster set would rise up in the horizon and in unison surfers paddled out deeper in anticipation, or as an act of self preservation. I did a little of both and ulltimately caught perhaps my longest rides ever, at least in NC. Hope you all were visited by Ms. Bertha...

I am posting a message I got earlier today regarding Allan Weisbecker, surfer , writer, and much more. I count him as a friend though we have never met in person. If you haven't heard of him then take the time to read his books, go to his website www.banditobooks.com . Right now he is sick and could use all the positive thoughts he can get. Here is the message and link...

Hello Everyone,John here, Allan's friend and web guy.
Many of you may be wondering why Allan has not responded to inquiries and feedback related to his last DSP about his return to Costa Rica. The fact is, Allan is seriously ill and has not been able to check email.Friends have asked that I keep the details of his illness private for now, so I'm going to respect their wishes and say only the following: He is seeking treatment and his condition is treatable (as in curable) if things go well in the next few days; though, as I write this, he is fighting for his life.I have set up a message board/guestbook for those of you who would like to show your love and support for Allan. Please take a moment to sign it and send some positive thoughts his way. Your support has always been extremely important to him... now more than ever.The message board is at www.banditobooks.com/guestbook.php
Thanks,John BenedettiBandito Books

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