favorite surfers

Southeastern North Carolina has produced many great surfers and if you pay attention or are the type that follows this kind of thing then you can likely name them as well as I can. I have a lot of favorite surfers, but I can’t name most of them. I recognize them out in the surf and you might too. One favorite surfer is the little kid not quite strong enough to paddle out or into a wave, but once someone gives a little push they drop down the face and make turns like a champ. Imagine how good they might be one day. Another is the old guy (and I say this in the most respectful way) who managed to get his 10 foot log out past the big, churning impact zone and caught good rides while meanwhile I got put in my place and was left bruised, breathless and wave less. I also have a high regard for those in our midst that that shape and glass those works of art that carry us and move us across the waves- our waves. Not only can they surf, but they can magically transfer that feeling into a thing, a shape. You may know their names, but if you don’t be sure to ask around and then go buy a local shaped board when you have the chance or the means. One of my favorite surfers pops up now and again at my favorite spots and I like to think we watch each others backs when no one else is out. I will never forget standing on a foggy day facing a wave that I could only hear and not see. That favorite surfer showed up just when I thought donning a wetsuit might not be worth the hassle. His soul standing there next to me provided an invisible push that morning and I had one of the most memorable sessions ever. Other favorites are of the fairer sex. I don’t tend to segregate surfers as men and women otherwise, but the truth is that women surfers add a grace and style that I just don’t have. Then there is that group I always see around. Sometimes just two show up, other days maybe five or six. They always catch the right waves, follow the best lines, and then effortlessly are back out for the next set. Yes, these favorite surfers are my friends the pelicans. I have another favorite surfer. With the exception of maybe my kids, he is no one else’s favorite. I admit that one of my very favorite surfers is me. I am my own favorite because when I am in the act surfing, I can’t think about anything or anyone else. And in that moment, I doubt you could convince me otherwise.

See you in the water.