Safe Passage

Latest contribution to Local Sessions Magazine... get a copy at your local shop cape fear shop for lots of great pics and original content...


Craigslist Post: surf board - $25
one full size surfboard with safety rope, it belonged to my son but he is in heaven now


that is all it said. Reading this posting I felt lucky and hoped I replied in time. When I opened the ad and read this simple statement I really had to pause. Lots of emotions and thoughts about life, surfing and surfers who have passed fell onto me like a good rainstorm. I felt a deep sadness as I thought about my perfect children and how very much I love them and couldn’t fathom losing them ever. I can clearly see the smile on my son’s face as he turned back from the shore to look at me standing in the ocean searching for a “thumbs up” of approval as he surfed in for the first times. Anyone who has ever surfed has the privilege of feeling a little closer to his or her maker and perhaps that is why I felt compelled to see if the board was still available not because I need another board (whoa…did I actually write that !? ) but rather I really wanted that kindred spirit to be nourished and given new life and I had something in mind.

I troll around craigslist looking for boards, some to fix and resell, some to ride, and even broken ones for art projects. So yes, I don’t really “need” a surfboard I suppose. Giving life to old or broken things is very satisfying. Fixing up an old longboard that was nearly part of the landfill into homage to a favorite writer (the Weisbecker Board) became an obsession, and I just finished one art piece from thruster with a broken tail for the Art to Heart auction to benefit Duke Children’s Hospital that used the surface of the board as a canvas. This board however had already found a new home. Maybe to be resold, or hung up somewhere, but ultimately I hope that board finds the ocean again since my plans to paint it and give it a new, multifaceted life as a surfboard, art and donation for charity events won’t work out with this one- but I will find another.

Still, this unnamed surfer will be given a little more life here among us; at least this is my hope. If we remember people, then a part of them keeps living and if we can pass these memories or things along, then maybe they are never fully gone, and they live forever. One thing I dwelled on much after a friend passed on some years back, is that I would have much rather been driving to go see him living and not driving to a memorial in his honor. So, go see your friends and family, don’t take them for granted.

Life and Surfing becomes synonymous to many. I don’t know much about some of the people I surf with; often I don’t know their names even if I have seen them a dozen times and even chatted with them. I do know that they are a surfer. Someone who shares the thrills of the ride, or utter awe at the ocean’s beauty and power, or maybe they too find a lot of calm and peace in the ocean. As I go left, sliding down the line on a glassy wave, I thrust my hand into the wave face, and I’m connected and time no longer exists. It doesn’t stop or slow down, it’s just not there. As I paddle out for a dawn patrol session, I breathe in the ocean air, and float facing the sunrise and experience one of surfing’s great pleasures. I know nothing about this surfer, and not much about others that have passed on really, but I don’t need do. I didn’t need to know anything else about this man and his son.

Now and again we lose a fellow surfer and remember them by paddling out and joining together in the ocean that drew them in and gave them new life as surfer. Isek Dinesen wrote…”The cure for anything is salt water: sweat, tears or the sea…”, and so wishing fellow wave riders a safe passage beyond in this way is really more for us, for those left behind. I am guessing the waves are always warm, glassy and chest high where they are now and the paddle out is always easy. I hope I have given a little more life to this surfer, and others you might think of now. See you in the water. Contact me at Writteninwax@gmail.com with ideas, suggestions or for no reason at all…

season has changed

Wearing a wetsuit for the first time marks a change of season for me each year. Winter, which really in my North Carolina surfing terms goes from late fall to early spring, is that elongated season of wearing a full suit. Yes, there is the harsh, dead of winter around February surfing that really sets you apart from the weaker, casual surfer- but its all still "winter" to me. Spring and Fall surf seasons are fairly short at my local breaks. They seem like a few weeks of transition between full neoprene maybe just a wetsuit type shirt or vest, or maybe a few days where you surfed in board shorts but could have used a little warmth. The other elongated season is Summer. As a kid they seemed much longer than they have as an adult, but thanks to surfing, I have managed to stretch them out once again to include part of spring and fall too! The cool water does wonders for thinning out the crowds, but I still love surfing in warm air and warm water.

Win a Greg Eavey Board to Benefit Surfers Healing

I just saw this and I would love to win this board. What I would love more is for everyone to buy a ticket or 10 or 20 and benefit the amazing Surfers Healing foundation locally.

http://www.wblivesurf.com/news.asp?id=503

Check the link for more info and good luck on winning!

Longboard Magazine Art of Surfing edition is out

Longboard Magazine just sent me the latest annual surf art issue. If I am ever going to get onto the pages of this magazine, artwork will be the only way. Also a big kudos to Tony Silvagni for his 2nd place finish in the Honda US Open of Surfing longboard division...very cool for us here in the cape fear area. Tony has legitimately gotten himself on those pages a few times.

Big surf is hanging around from the coastal storm that kicked up the last few days, and this weekend promises to provide some fun waves...we shall see.

cool air warm water

This is a great season to be surfing...as in early fall as the air cools a little but the water is warm. There is something surreal about walking into an ocean that is warmer than the air around you. Still, I saw my first full wetsuit of the season on a guy. I was embarrassed for him actually. This is NC, not N. CA.... The surf was strange too, like it wasn't quite meant for me to surf those last two days. At least the body boarders and kayakers were having fun.

Which reminds me... though I try hard to keep good surf karma. I really don't appreciate a pack of body boarders parking in front of me. I was happy to let it go and paddle elsewhere til you boasted that you ran off the surfers. Yep, that is why I parked right next to you. Next time just whisper....

Whoa, where did that come from? Here is a little good karma to offset things. Don't forget the Art to Heart charity event and art auction... its a cool way to earn $$ for a worthy cause...and besides I donated a piece and I need at least one or two bids to save face...

Max and the surfing trophy

I made my son a surfing trophy commemorating his first real, standing up on a board for more than 1 second surf. This was last June or July. A broken arm this spring set him back a little, but this past weekend he really showed both the ability and "stoke". The waves on Bald Head Island were perfectly shaped but really small. The water was relatively shallow, so walking out into the calm waters and giving him a little nudge into the wave was all he needed to catch long rides. His balance is getting better and he told me he was trying to turn more. All this on an old beater performance longboard I had just days before gotten seaworthy. We head back later in the week for more, the conditions may not be so good for him then. He asked if he was going to get another trophy. Of course he will.

Lil, the youngest rode with me on several waves, fast rides all the way into shore. I think she will be surfing by next year...

surfer, dude

I am always so hungry for surf movie, not just a documentary or series of patched together surf footage, but a real surf movie that Surfer, Dude is looking pretty good. I like all the actors, and the concept. For all of the naysayers...go out and make a surf related movie...I will probably go watch it, rent it and maybe even buy it! Me and my little grom and best gal are looking forward to seeing it on the big screen...

highway to surf

You notice a fair amount of surfboards on I-40 traveling to and fro.
We need to remember how sacred this gift is to live on the coast where
going for a surf can be spontaneous.

Where did all that time go?

Wow- I have lost track of blog time. Its been nearly 3 weeks since a post but since no one really reads this anyway(yet) I suppose I am relatively safe. I have enjoyed a lot of smallish days and have scored some really great rides. I have been getting some nice rides down the line where I have stuck my hand in the wave to slow down, even thought I might get a little "head dip" barrel a few times. Those rides really feel like time shuts down. I can see and feel so much, and I see the rest of the world slow down around me.

A few of those days I was riding near some groms, though "grom" may not be quite right since some of them probably have been surfing as long or longer than me anyway. You can spot the local kids who know how to paddle and catch waves, their tan skin and confidence in the water is easily contrasted by the awkward, pale kids trying to paddle twice and often much to late for any kind of success. I tend to not look back too much in life, except regret for not surfing sooner.

Glass Glider

Another great day at the beach!. I surfed this past Saturday AM on some memorable, glassy waves. It wasn't a big day, but the other conditions made for some perfect longboarding. At one point as I floated next to my board, before I hopped back on to paddle out I actually kissed the salty, wax covered deck of my board. I was overcome by the surreal feeling of the previous wave. If anyone saw me, I apologize for that...it was a private moment between man and his surfboard. The water was so smooth and glassy I could feel the wave, or rather the board's interface with the wave like I had never experienced before. Perhaps with added experience we get a better feel for minor changes in conditions. On that same ride time slowed down and as I crouched and sped down the line, I could see the breaking wave to my left and I reached out to feel the glassy waters part as my fingers slipped inside the wall of this wave. I wanted that ride to last forever....

Berthaaaaahh

Never was a woman's name so sweet as Bertha. After watching and waiting for more than a week the swell finally arrived in time, and by chance, I arrived in time for her. The same swell down in Myrtle Beach somehow just wasn't working so well. Its interesting how geology and geography can make a big difference with the relatively little "distance" between there and good ol' Wrightsville Beach. The Sweetwater Pro/Am could not have had it any better and Tony Butler seems to have pulled off a great event. I just hope he had a chance to surf a little of Bertha's waves. Sunday morning may have been the best surfing I've had, certainly the best of the year. As far as I could see on either side of me, surfers lined up to catch the waist, chest and higher glassy waves. Mostly , there seemed to be a good vibe, people spread out and got along. It was just too good to waste time doing anything but surf. Occaisionally a monster set would rise up in the horizon and in unison surfers paddled out deeper in anticipation, or as an act of self preservation. I did a little of both and ulltimately caught perhaps my longest rides ever, at least in NC. Hope you all were visited by Ms. Bertha...

I am posting a message I got earlier today regarding Allan Weisbecker, surfer , writer, and much more. I count him as a friend though we have never met in person. If you haven't heard of him then take the time to read his books, go to his website www.banditobooks.com . Right now he is sick and could use all the positive thoughts he can get. Here is the message and link...

Hello Everyone,John here, Allan's friend and web guy.
Many of you may be wondering why Allan has not responded to inquiries and feedback related to his last DSP about his return to Costa Rica. The fact is, Allan is seriously ill and has not been able to check email.Friends have asked that I keep the details of his illness private for now, so I'm going to respect their wishes and say only the following: He is seeking treatment and his condition is treatable (as in curable) if things go well in the next few days; though, as I write this, he is fighting for his life.I have set up a message board/guestbook for those of you who would like to show your love and support for Allan. Please take a moment to sign it and send some positive thoughts his way. Your support has always been extremely important to him... now more than ever.The message board is at www.banditobooks.com/guestbook.php
Thanks,John BenedettiBandito Books

Test 2

Test 2
... Message sent via Blackberry...

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Bertha's tease

Bertha is out there now, teasing all the east coast surfers. It looks like its going to turn north and slow down so I am hoping that (a) I will not get activated to work the emergency operation center and (b) there will be some big, clean, long period waves heading this way. Weather Underground is my "go to " hurricane site. It compiles several sources and is updates frequently. http://www.wunderground.com/tropical/

I will be heading to Myrtle Beach in the midst of this development so I will probably need to bring a few boards. I guess I need to test my remote blog posting capability....

a big hello...and another link

Just when I thought no one read this blog... a big hello to Amy and Geoff! who as I recall have also surfed at least once...and in CR! Its a little disheartening to know that they probably surfed better waves in Costa Rica during a beginners' lesson than I usually do anytime here.

Here is a pic of one of their dogs as taken by my son. Sorry Gretel- I don't have one of you.. but remember you do have the portrait in the foyer...









Found this surfing / art related website during lunch...
http://www.clubofthewaves.com/index.php

The past week or so has brought some decent waves. Saturday and Sunday were solid stomach high with some bigger. Surfing with my pal Dylan is always fun especially when you catch his game face as he rides down the line or drops down the wave face.

a few good surf related links

http://www.wblivesurf.com/index.asp

http://www.swellinfo.com/

http://www.surfersteve.com/introduction.htm

http://www.swaylocks.com/

http://www.banditobooks.com/ezine/home

I spend a little time at these spots.... worth checking out in my humble opinion

too late

I waited too long and by the time I paddled out on "the best day in June" I was struggling to be in the perfect , elusive spots in windy, choppy surf. I got a few rides and the water felt great. A few others were out near me, all women actually. Chicks with Sticks! I would rather watch women surf any day, much more grace and style.....

best day in june

The online forum says its the best surf of June today. I say its only good if you get to surf it! So, now as I eat my lunch from my desk, checking surf reports and whining, will I be worth anything for the rest of the day? Maybe I should just cash in some vacation time and go...

I may get the best of both worlds and head out right after work. I need to start leaving a board here at the office. Which reminds me, I got a new surf rack for the Deep (Jeep) from Inno. The Inno Boardlocker is uber cool....but...again...only if it has your board locked in it and ready to go surfing on a tuesday at 1pm!!!! They are available from Costco online at a good savings if you can't find one at the local surf shop.

reprieve

Weeks on end of knee high or less waves was broken on Sunday. The distinction, for me, on those larger days comes in the ratio of thrill to time and effort expended catching a wave. On bigger days, the waves that I catch and ride are fewer but when I do, the "wow" factor is higher. I have most of my most fun days on waist high clean waves, but my most memorable rides generally are on chest, head or even higher waves. So, yesterday getting that "drop"down a big face really fuels the surfing fire within.

Saturday was a wash, literally. I tried to surf with some friends but the lightning kept us at bay. Still, it was good to have the little group together...bound in time and place for the common purpose in what we call the "board meetings".

Today is International Go Surfing Day

.....so GO SURF, or at least do something related, maybe wear a surf shirt, ride your indo board, go watch someone surf, whatever. I am going to try to make it into the water though it may be a little flat here. Google Surfing Day to learn more.

First Heat

On May 17th I surfed my first surf competition heat. About a year before at the same WBLA competition I watched and made a goal to enter the next year. I really wasn't as good as I had hoped but I entered anyway. The waves were small and I was nervous, but in the end I had a lot of satisfaction having surfed that day. The best part was watching all of the others, surfers of all ages really show their stuff.

I always wondered what I looked like surfing, now I know!...not so graceful. I know I am more or a "soul surfer" but this was fun and it pushed me. It also helped connect me to something bigger and I have a new goal for 2009...to advance to the second heat. We shall see.

its all relative

I spent a long weekend in Myrtle Beach seeing family and enjoying the father's day with my kids and wife. I brought one board, a 9 foot "Supersoft" brand soft top board. It floats on top of the water even when I am on it, so it really floats. Other than that, the benefit is its softness, soft top and rails, little soft tri fin set up. All of this adds up to a user friendly, low performance board. Or at least that is what I just told myself.

A few waves later I realize that while I brought this so friends and family might give surfing a shot, I was going to be riding this baby blue board with brick shaped rails for the majority of time it saw water, at least for this trip. There is a video out somewhere of Taj Burrow and Kelly Slater and maybe some others surfing a beautiful wave, on various boards, then they start surfing on things like coffee tables...and they still surf better than my best day. Back to the blue bomber...I decided I was going to get every ounce of fun from this thing that I could. Steadily I figured this board out, I finessed the rails and fins around to turn without the board stalling, and I found myself having a few really good rides. Pop up, bottom turn (OK, its was small mushy myrtle beach wave bottom turns) ride down the line, stall and cut back and ride the other direction, even edge up toward the nose a bit.

Surfing is surfing. If its fun you are looking for, if its the passion of the ride, then it shouldn't matter what you get your kicks from. Now I just want to ride everything I can...well, maybe not a coffee table.

board in the works

I recently interviewed Shawn O'Donnell of Wrightsville Glassing/SOD Surfboards / Dr. Ding and had a chance to see the first board he shaped. That article is in the latest of issue of Local Sessions...so go get your copy today!

I had already started my first "from scratch" board and he really inspired me to get moving to finish mine. I have it shaped about 90 percent with most of the remaining shaping and sanding left on the rails and then a final sanding all over. I picked up a piece of Cape Fear Riverwood to make a noseblock and tailblock. Cool company and 100 year old heart pine recovered from the Cape Fear River will make this board very unique. Currently the nose and tail have been cut off so things look pretty bad right now but my vision of the completed board is still looking very sharp. We shall see if my vision can become reality.

Also, I am now an official member of creativewilmington.com regardless of your creative interest or "bent" its worth a look and a great resource for what is going on in the community that really counts!

And before I sign out for today, I am recommitted to making this a daily blog, or at least several times a week. Focus is still on my surfing thoughts, but I may throw in a few other "found objects" you might enjoy. See you in the water...

Anticipation

Anticipation. Sometimes good surf just shows up, but more often we see it coming. Technology and a little time and understanding can let anyone predict the arrival of waves. Its that understanding and time thing I don't always have. Tomorrow is predicted at chest high, clean surf. I already have my schedule rearranged. Its been too long to miss this swell.

surf seasons

When the seasons are changing I think "this is my favorite time of year", but I say that about all of the seasons. What I really like is the change itself and the newness of that change. Solidly in spring now, the water temperature lags a little at 62 degrees and my full wetsuit is still the pick. I might try the springsuit the next time I get a sunny surf session. As much as I bitch about wetsuits, they do the job and keep me surfing all year. They also provide a contrast, and like the changing of the four seasons, the I like this change of the surf season too. I get to strip that suit off and once again feel big blue on my skin, feel the salty ocean water dry on my shoulders under a warming sun. I will revel in that first day released from the neoprene that has bound and restricted me. I will paddle and and pop up and turn down the line as a lighter, stronger surfer. Just give me about 10 more degrees......

ditching

You can't be a serious surfer for long without ditching something in order to get some surf in your schedule. Thursday before Easter the forecast looked promising and the early morning report was a "4 Wave" rating described as stomach/chest and glassy. The big group meeting wouldn't miss me too much, though the other surfers might notice assuming they weren't out themselves. Having not paddled out much in the weeks before, I was a little rusty and getting out past the shorebreak having just gotten over a bad cold didn't help, but of course this all disappeared with the first ride. The waves wore me out quicker than I expected. I even made the last half of the meeting afterall. Friday I had the day off and caught much smaller, but equally fun waves.

A long dry spell

I find myself in a long dry spell. For a few weeks now I have not surfed and I can feel something tugging at me. Either the waves have been flat, or when they were good I was out of town or just unable to go. I have my board project started and I need to do a little more shaping. It too has sort of languished a few weeks also. I have skateboarded a little, so there is that to entertain me. The water temp is rising, so warm boardshort days are heading back....

In the Rain

I have surfed in the rain several times and did so again on Saturday. The middle of January on a sunless, rainy day with only one other surfer in sight was a lonely feeling. I think it was the surreal feeling and sound of the rain on the wetsuit and on the water around me. It was loud but so consistent that things seemed very quiet. I won't try to explain that any further, but its worth a try. If you have ever been looked at funny because you are voluntarily going into the cold ocean in the winter, you should see how those looks are when you add rain to the mix. Yes, maybe I am a little off in the head. However, in my mind its "off" of the norm to a better place. A slightly evolved surf inspired human brain that they would not understand. Perhaps its best. I did see my friend the pelican- this one was alone and headed in close to me as our paths crossed. I think maybe it was the closest I've been to one in flight while surfing- we were both surfing afterall. His big eyes looking at me as he passed seemed human like. In the only way we could communicate really, I am pretty sure he wasn't telling me I was crazy.