Monday, January 14, 2008
In the Rain
I have surfed in the rain several times and did so again on Saturday. The middle of January on a sunless, rainy day with only one other surfer in sight was a lonely feeling. I think it was the surreal feeling and sound of the rain on the wetsuit and on the water around me. It was loud but so consistent that things seemed very quiet. I won't try to explain that any further, but its worth a try. If you have ever been looked at funny because you are voluntarily going into the cold ocean in the winter, you should see how those looks are when you add rain to the mix. Yes, maybe I am a little off in the head. However, in my mind its "off" of the norm to a better place. A slightly evolved surf inspired human brain that they would not understand. Perhaps its best. I did see my friend the pelican- this one was alone and headed in close to me as our paths crossed. I think maybe it was the closest I've been to one in flight while surfing- we were both surfing afterall. His big eyes looking at me as he passed seemed human like. In the only way we could communicate really, I am pretty sure he wasn't telling me I was crazy.
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