highway to surf

You notice a fair amount of surfboards on I-40 traveling to and fro.
We need to remember how sacred this gift is to live on the coast where
going for a surf can be spontaneous.

Where did all that time go?

Wow- I have lost track of blog time. Its been nearly 3 weeks since a post but since no one really reads this anyway(yet) I suppose I am relatively safe. I have enjoyed a lot of smallish days and have scored some really great rides. I have been getting some nice rides down the line where I have stuck my hand in the wave to slow down, even thought I might get a little "head dip" barrel a few times. Those rides really feel like time shuts down. I can see and feel so much, and I see the rest of the world slow down around me.

A few of those days I was riding near some groms, though "grom" may not be quite right since some of them probably have been surfing as long or longer than me anyway. You can spot the local kids who know how to paddle and catch waves, their tan skin and confidence in the water is easily contrasted by the awkward, pale kids trying to paddle twice and often much to late for any kind of success. I tend to not look back too much in life, except regret for not surfing sooner.