I recently joined the Wrightsville Beach Longboard Association and though I don't know most of the members it is a good group and I like being with like minded folks. One of the members just had a movie in the local independent film festival, Cucalorus, entitled Any Given Morning. It really was a good film. Thirty minutes of surfing footage, narrative, interviews, and all of it seemed to hit home with me. The link above goes to a static web page, but a trailer is being worked on and she is going to be taking pre-orders for the movie soon.
On this past Sunday and Monday(Veteran's Day Holiday for this bureaucrat) I surfed some OK longboard waves. Sunday I rode the Weisbecker Board, but forgot my leash which was interesting. I was essentially alone in the water as far as surfers went, but there were a lot of people walking on the beach enjoying the bright day and crystal clear, Caribbean blue waters. I wasn't alone in the water if you count the 2 or 3 pods of dolphins. There were maybe 15 or 20 total swimming and feeding as close as 10 yards away. I could see some of the finer details of their markings, things like little notches in their fins. I missed a few good set waves as I preferred to watch the graceful arcs they make in the water. Monday was a better surfing day, cleaner and a little bigger but nothing spectacular. The picture is from the same day and probably a few beach accesses south of where I paddled out. Different board, and I had my leash this time, different waves, different day, same spot; It's continually impressive how different surfing is for me from day to day , session to session. I thought of Any Given Morning and how I am not alone with these thoughts.
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