Time to Give Thanks

Two days from Thanksgiving. Things are pretty slow in the office and tomorrow looks like some decent surf for me. Plans are currently to surf in the AM, go to work, surf the AM of Turkey Day then hit the road to visit the in laws a few hours inland. On Friday we come back home and with any luck I can paddle out on Saturday or Sunday. I give much thanks to surfing and all that is has led me to. I do that everyday- give thanks for surfing that is. I can be thankful that the in laws are not coming to our place! I am SO thankful my wife is understanding and supportive of my habit, addiction, evolving way of life (surf life). I am thankful I bought the used local shaped board that is full of surf "mana" and the memorable rides it has carried me upon. I am thankful for neoprene. I am thankful for all those I love and that love me- though it is a short list that doesn't change much. I am thankful for a great job, great kids and wife, and really a pretty great life. Next year perhaps I can be thankful for mastering the art of noseriding and getting barrelled, but for now just catching rides down the line on my log makes me pretty darn happy.