gift waves

I surfed so much this past week I am loosing track of how much I paddled out. The gift of surf is priceless to me and actually having time and waves align is a very good thing. Saturday was choppy and drifty but this size was good. Sunday, my birthday, was a little smaller but much better. I woke early and took off leaving various in laws and my family asleep. Only the visiting pet dog took notice as he lifted is eyes from his comfortable sleeping spot atop my couch. I surfed til I could surf no more and left good waves behind for those arriving with fresh paddling muscles. Monday, Christmas Eve, another early surf gift. The waves lined up nicely and though smaller the conditions were very clean. Riding my trusty 9'6" Will Allison, I managed several nice noserides. Still not perched over the tip of the nose with ten toes, but I am getting there. Any time I am spend on the front third of the board I count. As I progress I suppose I will whittle that down. I figure by the time I can shed the extra 10-15 pounds of wetsuit this summer, I will get there- at least to cheat five...Christmas was a good day on the ocean from what I read on the local report websites, but it was better spent with my family and I figured I was pushing my luck anyway! Yesterday was a great way to end my days off with a great little session on small longboard waves. I rode the Weisbecker Board and with a new, larger center fin was able to get on the nose of that board too...by my current definitions anyway.