ditching

You can't be a serious surfer for long without ditching something in order to get some surf in your schedule. Thursday before Easter the forecast looked promising and the early morning report was a "4 Wave" rating described as stomach/chest and glassy. The big group meeting wouldn't miss me too much, though the other surfers might notice assuming they weren't out themselves. Having not paddled out much in the weeks before, I was a little rusty and getting out past the shorebreak having just gotten over a bad cold didn't help, but of course this all disappeared with the first ride. The waves wore me out quicker than I expected. I even made the last half of the meeting afterall. Friday I had the day off and caught much smaller, but equally fun waves.