Today is International Go Surfing Day

.....so GO SURF, or at least do something related, maybe wear a surf shirt, ride your indo board, go watch someone surf, whatever. I am going to try to make it into the water though it may be a little flat here. Google Surfing Day to learn more.

an older surfer

In about 3 months I will turn 4o. This does not bother me, and I don't think about it much. Most birthdays of my 20's and 30's are pretty uneventful actually. I feel younger these past few years than the years before, so I think I am pretty fortunate. Last year I surfed on my birthday. Being two days before christmas can be tricky time to go surfing. I certainly don't want the visiting inlaws to think I would rather surf than spend quality time with my extended family...



Anyway, last year the water was cold on December 23rd and choppy, and windy, and had a north to south drift that felt like a whitewater canoe ride more than a surf session. I paddled out anyway because it was my birthday and I could not imagine anything else I'd rather be doing. This December will only be significant because the wife tells me I should get something really special for my fortieth birthday..a surfboard she suggests...



Buying a new longboard of the quality that I would want is no minor expense, at least in terms of my relative wealth, but then again I rarely spend a lot of money on my self and I like to think that surfing is a lot cheaper than say..golfing, or boating. Its also something that I would have thought to be really easy to do. Afterall I "window shop" boards all the time. The buyers guide in every issue of Longboard Magazine is like the Dupont Registry of surf. One of the boards caught my eye in the issue I just recieved..the Infinity Secret Weapon. I was and mostly still are leaning toward a locally shaped and glassed just for me longboard, but the Secret Weapon was intriguing. I made the mistake of going by Sweetwater Surf Shop near my favorite break, where they by chance had not one, but two Secret Weapons. I think any surfer would be impressed by the obvious volume of space this board occupies. It was easily 4 inches thick...I am not so sure I could hold this board under my arm and I really would not care either!



So, you might see me on a new board..or maybe I will just keep riding what I have and love...

Its been a few weeks. I participated as a volunteer the other day for Surfer's Healing. The organization pairs the surfing world with autistic children. It was an impressive day and I plan to write about this some more. I met some guys from Hawaii who completely embody the whole concept of a surfer. I have seen lots of surfers do amazing tricks and such, but the most impressive surfers I have experienced were these 5 or 6 guys who surfed almost 6 hours , on 12 foot plus tandems with autistic children under their care as they navigated the waves.

Also, this past saturday has firmed up my belief that you should just paddle out even when it doesnt look so hot. I had some of the best rides of my life on what most would deem a "so so" day. Of course I still have a lot of experience to gain, and those rides may pale to future ones, but for now, I have impressed even myself. Lately I have been pushing my skill level, really trying to make better turns and get longer rides down the line. Hurricane Dean, deep in the Gulf of Mexico and unfortunately now proven to be a deadly storm has also sent a gift to surfers here in southeastern North Carolina. I will likely go out this evening, tomorrow morning , or maybe both..