Scientists use the term "Half Life" to describe how things decay or diminish most commonly for radioactive materials. I have come to find my own surf stoke half life. Imagine the last wave you caught and that thrill and the euphoria. The last ones I rode were on Sunday- Big, windy, cold surf. I did get beat up a few times and bailed out on more waves than I rode. At the end of the session I only had a handful of rides, but each was intense. Those feelings fuel my love of surfing and that rush embedded in my core may diminish over time, but it will never really go away.
On windy days like that one, the crest of the waves get blown around, in this case blown back by the offshore winds. From behind those peaks its as though a mini rainshower is falling. That same spray often creates personalized rainbows as the bright daylight pierces the mist of sea water.
Walking down the street the next day, I felt the same cold and wind and pulled my coat tighter and tucked my chin down to stay warmer. I don't remember any of the cold of surfing the day before, but do remember most of the other things going on in and near my spot. Like all my surf sessions, this one has a half life, it will diminish in memory and the thrill of the glide will too, but it never goes away completely.
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