Weekend Surf

Thanks to an understanding family, I can almost always get some surfing in on the weekends. I have long realized that I can't schedule surfing around days I have available without missing some of the best waves, so I usually get a day in during the week before or after work too. And yes, sometimes I just have to use a little vacation time and surf when there is surf.

This past Saturday I picked up a used soft surfboard. The local surf camp was selling of the seasons used equipment and I have a few people wanting to learn, so this is a good board for that. Of course I had to give it a try! It floats really well and its light, but when I went for some turns it sort of just fizzled out and stopped. The rails are really thick and rounded, and it has three small fins, so maybe it just needs to be ridden straight...

Sunday was better, and I had my regular magic board. The waves were bigger, but the conditions were choppy and there was a southward drift, but overall I caught some good fast rides. Of course this time of year you catch the folks walking along the beach eyeing you like you are crazy, and some old lady started to scold me for walking around without a shirt and shoes as I was still halfway in my wetsuit getting my board strapped in for the trip home. When there is a couple walking, the men usually look at me and with there eyes seem to be saying "show off" , or "i could do that"..and the women seem to be more in wonder and often tend to smile. I don't know what this says about people or me or anything really, but I am a good people watcher and its what I sense. And of course its December now, so everyone asks me if its cold,or if I am cold, or do you get cold. I want to tell them that its just a latex fetish I have! Seriously , the suits work, but there is a price to pay in how you move, and how much quicker I get winded. Occasionally, like on Sunday, you catch women checking you out. I never thought of this as a reason for surfing mind you, after all I am happily married, but even my wife seems to like that I surf. And then there was the attractive red head at the beach that day. She too asked my if I was cold as we passed, but I like to think she was just flirting! Hey- I turn 40 this month, can't a guy have his ego boosted a little!?

Lastly, I went to the Wrightsville Beach Longboard Association oyster roast and Christmas party. It was fun and really the first function as a newly minted member of the club. My wife was impressed that I initiated doing something social (typically I just show up where I am told), but this was all me. Food was good and the company and conversations were better! Next weekend on Friday is the Hope From Helen fundraiser. This non profit is centered in the local surfing community and started as a way to help a local surf shop manager's mother through her illnesses. Now in her memory , the group raises funds for surf related charities like Surfers Healing and other worthy causes. So, I will go to that too and look forward to more camaraderie with fellow surfers.