reprieve

Weeks on end of knee high or less waves was broken on Sunday. The distinction, for me, on those larger days comes in the ratio of thrill to time and effort expended catching a wave. On bigger days, the waves that I catch and ride are fewer but when I do, the "wow" factor is higher. I have most of my most fun days on waist high clean waves, but my most memorable rides generally are on chest, head or even higher waves. So, yesterday getting that "drop"down a big face really fuels the surfing fire within.

Saturday was a wash, literally. I tried to surf with some friends but the lightning kept us at bay. Still, it was good to have the little group together...bound in time and place for the common purpose in what we call the "board meetings".