Today is International Go Surfing Day

.....so GO SURF, or at least do something related, maybe wear a surf shirt, ride your indo board, go watch someone surf, whatever. I am going to try to make it into the water though it may be a little flat here. Google Surfing Day to learn more.

First Heat

On May 17th I surfed my first surf competition heat. About a year before at the same WBLA competition I watched and made a goal to enter the next year. I really wasn't as good as I had hoped but I entered anyway. The waves were small and I was nervous, but in the end I had a lot of satisfaction having surfed that day. The best part was watching all of the others, surfers of all ages really show their stuff.

I always wondered what I looked like surfing, now I know!...not so graceful. I know I am more or a "soul surfer" but this was fun and it pushed me. It also helped connect me to something bigger and I have a new goal for 2009...to advance to the second heat. We shall see.

its all relative

I spent a long weekend in Myrtle Beach seeing family and enjoying the father's day with my kids and wife. I brought one board, a 9 foot "Supersoft" brand soft top board. It floats on top of the water even when I am on it, so it really floats. Other than that, the benefit is its softness, soft top and rails, little soft tri fin set up. All of this adds up to a user friendly, low performance board. Or at least that is what I just told myself.

A few waves later I realize that while I brought this so friends and family might give surfing a shot, I was going to be riding this baby blue board with brick shaped rails for the majority of time it saw water, at least for this trip. There is a video out somewhere of Taj Burrow and Kelly Slater and maybe some others surfing a beautiful wave, on various boards, then they start surfing on things like coffee tables...and they still surf better than my best day. Back to the blue bomber...I decided I was going to get every ounce of fun from this thing that I could. Steadily I figured this board out, I finessed the rails and fins around to turn without the board stalling, and I found myself having a few really good rides. Pop up, bottom turn (OK, its was small mushy myrtle beach wave bottom turns) ride down the line, stall and cut back and ride the other direction, even edge up toward the nose a bit.

Surfing is surfing. If its fun you are looking for, if its the passion of the ride, then it shouldn't matter what you get your kicks from. Now I just want to ride everything I can...well, maybe not a coffee table.

board in the works

I recently interviewed Shawn O'Donnell of Wrightsville Glassing/SOD Surfboards / Dr. Ding and had a chance to see the first board he shaped. That article is in the latest of issue of Local Sessions...so go get your copy today!

I had already started my first "from scratch" board and he really inspired me to get moving to finish mine. I have it shaped about 90 percent with most of the remaining shaping and sanding left on the rails and then a final sanding all over. I picked up a piece of Cape Fear Riverwood to make a noseblock and tailblock. Cool company and 100 year old heart pine recovered from the Cape Fear River will make this board very unique. Currently the nose and tail have been cut off so things look pretty bad right now but my vision of the completed board is still looking very sharp. We shall see if my vision can become reality.

Also, I am now an official member of creativewilmington.com regardless of your creative interest or "bent" its worth a look and a great resource for what is going on in the community that really counts!

And before I sign out for today, I am recommitted to making this a daily blog, or at least several times a week. Focus is still on my surfing thoughts, but I may throw in a few other "found objects" you might enjoy. See you in the water...

Anticipation

Anticipation. Sometimes good surf just shows up, but more often we see it coming. Technology and a little time and understanding can let anyone predict the arrival of waves. Its that understanding and time thing I don't always have. Tomorrow is predicted at chest high, clean surf. I already have my schedule rearranged. Its been too long to miss this swell.

surf seasons

When the seasons are changing I think "this is my favorite time of year", but I say that about all of the seasons. What I really like is the change itself and the newness of that change. Solidly in spring now, the water temperature lags a little at 62 degrees and my full wetsuit is still the pick. I might try the springsuit the next time I get a sunny surf session. As much as I bitch about wetsuits, they do the job and keep me surfing all year. They also provide a contrast, and like the changing of the four seasons, the I like this change of the surf season too. I get to strip that suit off and once again feel big blue on my skin, feel the salty ocean water dry on my shoulders under a warming sun. I will revel in that first day released from the neoprene that has bound and restricted me. I will paddle and and pop up and turn down the line as a lighter, stronger surfer. Just give me about 10 more degrees......

ditching

You can't be a serious surfer for long without ditching something in order to get some surf in your schedule. Thursday before Easter the forecast looked promising and the early morning report was a "4 Wave" rating described as stomach/chest and glassy. The big group meeting wouldn't miss me too much, though the other surfers might notice assuming they weren't out themselves. Having not paddled out much in the weeks before, I was a little rusty and getting out past the shorebreak having just gotten over a bad cold didn't help, but of course this all disappeared with the first ride. The waves wore me out quicker than I expected. I even made the last half of the meeting afterall. Friday I had the day off and caught much smaller, but equally fun waves.