Friday, October 12, 2007

Flat

Flat. One little word that relays so much. Yesterday afterwork I surfed in nearly flat conditions and the forecasts only looked flatter, so it was a chance to maybe catch a ride or two. I did catch lots of quick, jump off into shallow water before you break your fin, rides. I adjusted my position to follow the sunlight peaking through and around the two highrise buildings. The water was nearly perfect for me at 80 or so degrees. The cool breeze across my bareback and still tanned skin drove me into the water between rides. Glassy conditions are beautiful and inviting, but often are accompanied by smaller surf. I tend to embrace small days and in my own mind have become the king of shorebreak longboarding. I know there is risk to myself and board but I think I mitigate that fairly well. Floating in nearly the same spot that less than a week before I had felt the thrill of my biggest drop down a wave, the slow moving bumps in the water hardly seemed like they could come from the same ocean. But then the ocean does that and maybe its what keeps surfing so alive and challenging to me. Tomorrow promises to be smaller if that is possible. I suppose the waiting pile of lumber and fencing will have to be addressed, the grass mowed and other projects attended to for a change.

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