Friday, October 19, 2007
State of Mind
My current state of mind is dulled by a persistent, yet mild head cold. This being the case I am eyeing the surf forecast for tomorrow morning like a kid watching a frosting beater being handed to them. I see it coming, I think its going to be pretty good, and nothing else is really on my mind. I surfed the other night after work. I can't recall through the congestion sitting behind my face now which day that was. I went to my secret spot which really is no secret and paddled out alone. I estimated I had an hour before sunset as I had hurriedly unbuckled the faded straps on my roof rack. I wasted five precious minutes setting everything down and scrambling back and forth to pay for the 30 or so minutes of parking for which I was still responsible. Soon I was joined by two other souls and felt the relief of another human nearby in the water, but not too close. The wind had picked up an things looked a little sloppy, but looks are deceiving and waves are best judged from paddling vantage point. The waves were fun. I think most surfers can interpret this descriptor "fun" easy enough. Fun is getting rides if you give a little effort, fun is not epic or threatening, fun is not likely to give you an individual wave or ride that will stick in your head forever. I look for fun waves tomorrow as a minimum, which is usually pretty easy for me to experience. Since I don't think of much else when I a surfing, the head cold will vanish for a while and my state of mind will be altered.
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