a little homecoming

I surfed this morning before work. The conditions did not look so great when I arrived at the beach, but the waves had some size and though it was choppy and a little windy, there was no drift to speak of as it had been earlier in the week. I was in a rush to get into the water, so I skipped the coffee (bad mistake), forgot my rashquard (not so bad really) and then slammed the little fastex buckle on my surf racks in my car door. The slow motion view of this pained me until the sound of plastic hitting pavement shocked me back into regular speed viewing. I took a buckle from by backpack and fixed that first. I knew that I would want to surf until the last possible minute before a quick rinse off, dressing in the parking lot and getting to work for a meeting..just in time. I started to wonder if some message was being sent to just go home. Then I looked at the tattered board bag at my feet and I smiled. Inside was my favorite board, but one I had let lay fallow in a sense for several sessions. I bought this board used but it feels like it was made for me custom. There beside me, begging to be ridden, lay my 9'6" Allison Classic Longboard. I don't know enough about why its so good, but Will Allison shaped some magic into this board and the thousands of waves and and boards behind him all culminated into what is easily the best board I've ridden. So, it was a homecoming of sorts for me and my board. Paddling out always feels good on this stick. The white foam and froth of the ocean accentuated the little bit of yellowing this board has now. I have dinged and repaired the board more times than I recall of hand. The Rainbow Fin Company 9.5 Noserider fin, perfectly matched for this board, now has a flat spot where I've done too much "king of the shore break" riding.
I can tell I am a little out of shape by how quickly I felt the "bicep burn" kick in paddling out after each ride today. The board seemed to fall back into rhythm quicker than I and I worked passed the lack of caffeine until I fell back into mine. The rides were mostly short (what else is new), but I had fun. I pushed myself and made deep, rail burying turns just to feel the familiar, but sorely missed feel of that particular shaped board under my feet. We had our reunion, we surfed a little, that board and I. I really like trying any surfboard that I can manage to stand on and I have a few others that are really fun, but lately the best part of riding them has been that I really appreciate the one I surfed today.