an older surfer

In about 3 months I will turn 4o. This does not bother me, and I don't think about it much. Most birthdays of my 20's and 30's are pretty uneventful actually. I feel younger these past few years than the years before, so I think I am pretty fortunate. Last year I surfed on my birthday. Being two days before christmas can be tricky time to go surfing. I certainly don't want the visiting inlaws to think I would rather surf than spend quality time with my extended family...



Anyway, last year the water was cold on December 23rd and choppy, and windy, and had a north to south drift that felt like a whitewater canoe ride more than a surf session. I paddled out anyway because it was my birthday and I could not imagine anything else I'd rather be doing. This December will only be significant because the wife tells me I should get something really special for my fortieth birthday..a surfboard she suggests...



Buying a new longboard of the quality that I would want is no minor expense, at least in terms of my relative wealth, but then again I rarely spend a lot of money on my self and I like to think that surfing is a lot cheaper than say..golfing, or boating. Its also something that I would have thought to be really easy to do. Afterall I "window shop" boards all the time. The buyers guide in every issue of Longboard Magazine is like the Dupont Registry of surf. One of the boards caught my eye in the issue I just recieved..the Infinity Secret Weapon. I was and mostly still are leaning toward a locally shaped and glassed just for me longboard, but the Secret Weapon was intriguing. I made the mistake of going by Sweetwater Surf Shop near my favorite break, where they by chance had not one, but two Secret Weapons. I think any surfer would be impressed by the obvious volume of space this board occupies. It was easily 4 inches thick...I am not so sure I could hold this board under my arm and I really would not care either!



So, you might see me on a new board..or maybe I will just keep riding what I have and love...